A Passion for Food

Sweetness for the New Year

2012-01-22T13:28:00.000-08:00

Around 700 B.C.E. the Roman’s added the months of January and February to their calendar, which up to then consisted of only ten months. Until 46 B.C.E. the Roman’s celebrated New Years on two dates—January 1 and March 1. Why March 1? This was the day that the Vestal Virgins relit the fire on Vesta’s hearth, making it one of the most sacred days of the Roman year.

New Year’s was celebrated on January 1 for the first time in 143 B.C.E. January 1 was the beginning of the Roman civil year. It was on this day that the Roman Consuls, the two most powerful civil officials of the Roman Republic, began serving their one year terms. January 1 was not hard and fast, and many Roman’s clung to the tradition of March 1for their New Year celebrations. It was not until 46 B.C.E. when Julius Caesar declared January 1 the official first day of the Roman year that celebrating on March 1 ceased. What Julius Caesar said, went and as of 46 B.C.E. January 1 was celebrated as the first day of the New Year throughout the Roman Empire.

Wishing to distance themselves from the pagan-tainted celebration of January 1 as the first day of the New Year, Medieval Christian Europe changed New Year’s Day--a number of times. When the Gregorian calendar was adopted in 1582, January 1 again became the first day of the New Year. England and colonial America celebrated the New Year in March until 1752, when they officially adopted the Gregorian calendar.

The ancient Roman’s had a New Year’s Day gift giving tradition. Romans were extremely superstitious, and their New Year gift giving traditions were all about luck. Gold and silver were given to bring prosperity, lamps to bring light, tree branches for regeneration, and sweet cakes to bring sweetness in the New Year. So, what were Roman sweet cakes like?

Roman’s loved sweets, but their baked goods bear little resemblance to those of today mostly due to the difference of key ingredients. Emmer, a type of wheat, was a dietary staple used to make bread as well as cakes and pastries. Oils and soft cheeses were the Roman fats of choice. Although they were familiar with butter, Romans considered it uncivilized and did not eat it. The refined sugar we use today was unknown to Romans. (Some Romans may have been familiar with sugar cane as there is a legend that Alexander the Great and his army encountered it during the India campaign.) Honey and fruit pastes were the sweeteners used by Romans. They did have a type of sponge cake similar to those known in present day Italy. The high egg to flour ratio of these cakes provided volume and the eggs acted as the leavening agent—baking power and soda were also unknown to Romans. Romans did have cookies. These were often made from soft cheeses and flour, rolled into balls and deep fried.

Research for new product was constant when I was baking professionally. As on-line services were not widely available here in Vermont, research was done the old-fashioned way—with books. One year while doing research for holiday offerings, I stumbled across the Roman tradition of giving sweets at the New Year. A bit of digging produced a baked cookie recipe claiming to be the very same ancient one used by Romans. Intrigued I did some research into the culinary practices of ancient Rome. Although Romans baked bread and cakes, I could not find any reference to or recipes for baked cookies. This does not mean that Romans did not or could not have baked cookies, just that I was unsuccessful in finding any references to this culinary practice.

The recipe below is that very same “ancient” one unearthed during my research. Well, as you know from reading this post, this recipe cannot be the same one used by Romans. It is a delicious cookie—dense, but crumbly when bitten into. The cookie melts on the tongue, and the subtle flavor means eating just one is impossible. So, did the Romans have a cookie similar to this one that they gave at the New Year to wish the recipient sweetness that has been adapted over time? The whimsical part of me says, “I have no doubt!”

Notes for this recipe: For the best flavor use organic honey. Don't panic if the dough separates when the honey and egg are added to the butter, it will come together when the dry ingredients are added. These cookies keep extremely well, and the flavor develops over time. They can be made several weeks in advance and stored in an air tight container with layers separated by waxed paper.

Roman New Year’s Cookies

2-1/2 c. flour

3 tsp. baking powder

¼ tsp. salt

¼ tsp. baking soda

½ c. unsalted butter, at room temperature

1/2 c. organic honey

2 eggs

¾ c. sesame seeds, toasted*

In a bowl stir together the flour, baking powder, salt and baking soda. Set aside.

In another bowl beat the butter until light. Add the honey and eggs and beat until well combined. Scrape the bowl with a rubber spatula. Add the dry ingredients and beat on low to combine. Form the dough into a ball, wrap in plastic wrap, and chill for at least 3 hours or overnight.

Preheat oven to 375. Grease cookie sheets and set aside. Place the toasted sesame seeds in a small wide mouth bowl, set aside.

Using a 1 tbsp. scoop measure out the dough onto the counter. Using your hands, roll each scoop of dough into a ball.

Then, roll each ball into the toasted sesame seeds and place on prepared cookie sheets.

Use the bottom of a glass to flatten each ball slightly.

Bake cookies for 8 minutes or until golden brown, rotating halfway through baking time. Remove cookies to wire rack to cool completely.

*To toast sesame seeds: Preheat over to 350. Measure sesame seeds onto a baking sheet with sides. Place in the preheated oven and bake for 3 to 8 minutes, stirring as needed, until the sesame seeds are golden brown. Watch carefully to prevent scorching.

We Never Suspected the Dog!

2012-01-01T17:34:00.000-08:00

Dried fruit has a long and illustrious history. It is one of the earliest methods of food preservation, and has been used for millennia in the regions of the Mediterranean and the Middle East. (Date palms were one of the first cultivated trees, and became economically important in the Ancient Near East.) Dried fruits have a very long shelf life and retain most of their nutritive value after drying, making them a stable and desirable source of food. They also have bioactive properties important for maintaining nutritional health and preventing chronic illness.

Until this year, I had not paid much attention to how prominently dried fruits figured in our holiday baking traditions. They go into fruitcakes, cookies, bars, confections, stuffings, puddings, appetizers—and more, but you get the idea. Brandied Almond Fruit Bars are a particular favorite of DH’s. A few years back, Bella and I were assembling the cookie plates we deliver to friends. When we reached the layer in the tins where the Fruit Bars were stored, there was nothing but crumbs. The guilty look on DH’s face was a dead giveaway—we never suspected the dog!

The recipe for Brandied Almond Fruit Bars has been in my box for many years. It has been altered significantly from the original and tinkered with endlessly. A few years ago it finally settled to its current form with which I am greatly pleased. These are delicious, nutritious and beautiful to behold. Enjoy!

Brandied Almond Fruit Bars

Crust:

½ c. brown sugar

½ c. unsalted butter, softened

1-1/2 c. flour

¾ tsp. salt

Fruit layer:

2 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened

2 Tbsp. brown sugar

1 Tbsp. corn syrup

½ tsp. vanilla

½ c. flour

1/8 tsp. baking powder

1/8 tsp. salt

1 c. golden raisins or sultanas

1 c. dried cherries

1 c. snipped apricots

1 c. raisins

¼ c. apricot brandy

1 c. sliced almonds

Preheat oven to 350. Grease a 9x13 inch baking pan and set aside.

To prepare the crust: In a medium-sized bowl beat the brown sugar and butter until pale and light. Scrape the bowl. Add the flour and salt and mix until crumbly. Use your fingers to finish the dough. Press evenly into the bottom of the prepared pan. Set aside.

For the fruit layer: In another bowl cream the butter and brown sugar until light. Scrape the bowl. Add the corn syrup and vanilla and beat to combine. Add the flour, baking powder, and salt stirring to combine. Fold in the dried fruits and brandy. Gently fold in the
almonds.

Scrape the fruit mixture into the pan on top of the crust and spread evenly.

Bake at 350 for 25 to 30 minutes or until edges are lightly browned and fruit is set and beginning to brown. Remove to a wire rack to cool completely. Score and cut into 1 inch squares. Store in a wax paper lined airtight container for up to two weeks. Separate layers with waxed paper.

A Little Extra Something

2011-12-30T16:55:00.000-08:00

Christmas baking is usually a time for me to cut loose and do some creating and experimening, but not this year. My day job kept me busy right up to the last with nary a spare moment. With professional obligations weighing so heavily Bella and I decided to stick with traditional family favorites: My grandmother’s Gingerbread Cookies, my mother’s Sugar Cookies, Chocolate Raisin Oat Bars, and Brandied Almond Fruit Bars. As we would be baking small batches, we needed to come up with a little extra something to deliver to the neighbors along with our holiday well wishes. Epiphany--Pumpkin Cranberry Bread!

This past fall, when pumpkins were in short supply else where, a banner crop was harvested in Vermont--in spite of Hurricane Irene. Our pumpkins were purchased from the neighbors who had a beautiful crop of both carving and eating pumpkins, of which they had several varieties. Growers insist there are major differences between the eating varieties in flavor, texture, and sweetness, but truthfully I can detect no noticeable differences. This year we purchased fewer and smaller pumpkins, and they yielded an incredible amount of puree. With a freezer full of homemade pumpkin puree, a plentiful supply of fresh cranberries purchased at The Morse Farm, and a fast, easy, quantity-producing recipe for Pumpkin Cranberry Bread, it was decided that this would make the perfect additional something for the neighbors.

There is, however, a significant difference in flavor between home processed pumpkin puree and commercially canned. If you’ve never made your own, I encourage you to try. It is a very straightforward forward process, and worth the bit of time it takes. (Click here for the link to my post on how to make pumpkin puree.) Once you eat homemade, it’s hard to go back to a commercially produced product.

Notes for this recipe: Yes, the pans must be lined with parchment paper. This is an essential step, skipping it will result in breads stuck to the pan. Dried cranberries can be substituted for fresh, but the flavor and texture of the bread will suffer. Orange juice can be substituted for apple cider. Commercially canned pumpkin puree can be substituted for the fresh.

Pumpkin Cranberry Bread

3 c. flour

¼ tsp. nutmeg (freshly grated preferred)

¼ tsp. cloves

¼ tsp. mace

¼ tsp. allspice

1 tsp. cinnamon

1 tsp. ginger
2 tsp. baking soda

1-1/2 tsp. salt

3 c. brown sugar

2 c. fresh pumpkin puree (or 15 oz. commercially canned)

4 large eggs

1 c. canola oil

½ c. apple cider

2 cups fresh cranberries

Grease 1 5x9” pan or 5 3x5” pans, line with parchment paper. Grease and flour parchment paper and set pans aside. Preheat oven to 350.

Measure flour, spices, baking soda, and salt into a bowl, set aside.

Measure oil and apple cider into a 2 c. glass measuring cup and set aside. Measure brown sugar into a large bowl. Add the eggs and oil mixture and stir with a rubber spatula to combine. Add the pumpkin puree and mix with the rubber spatula just to combine. Add the dry ingredients and mix until just combined.

Fold in the cranberries.

Scrape into the prepared pans.
Bake for 55 to 60 minutes or until a tester inserted in the middle comes out clean. Remove pans to wire racks. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes. To remove breads from their pans, tip pans onto their sides and gently ease out the breads. Carefully remove the parchment paper. Gently turn breads back onto their bottoms and cool completely.

Life is Like That From Time-to-Time

2011-12-25T11:55:00.000-08:00

It’s Christmas Day. It may seem unusual that I have chosen to write a blog post today of all days. Let me begin by saying that it has been an especially busy quarter. The demands of my day job have left little time for doing anything other than working and sleeping. (Life is like that from time-to-time.)

Bella is off “doing tree” with her other family, and DH and I are grateful for the quiet solitude of this Christmas Day. Unlike Chistmases past we will not be having 30 people for dinner. DH and I sit here companionably, waiting for Bella to return, listening to French Carols, reading and watching the gently falling snow through our living room windows. I find myself, for the first time in many months with leisure time. It is glorious and I can’t think of a better way to spend my first leisure moments in months than to write a blog post.

We had a houseful for Thanksgiving. Family from away and family from just up the road a piece gathered here to celebrate this most American of holidays. While planning out the day’s menu, Bella and I decided to try and keep it as simple as possible—including the desserts. Thanksgiving would be incomplete without a pie or two, but they needed to be quick and easy. That led us to Dutch Apple Pie and Chocolate Pecan Pie, two absolute family favorites.

The Chocolate Pecan Pie is based on a recipe I ripped from a magazine eons ago. Like 99.9% of the recipes I use, it has been altered from the original. So, here it is—Chocolate Pecan Pie.

Notes for this recipe: Use the best quality bittersweet choclate you can find. (Belgian Callebaut is my chocolate of choice.) The pie crust can be made a day in advance, wrapped and stored in the refrigerator until you are ready to roll it out. The pie can be made two days in advance. To store, cover it tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Allow the pie to sit at room temperature for 20 minutes before serving. If you choose to serve whipped cream with your pie, organic heavy cream provides the best flavor and texture. Add just a splash of vanilla to enhance the flavor.

1 single pie crust (click here for my pie crust recipe)

8 oz. high-quality bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped--divided

2 Tbsp unsalted butter

3 eggs

¼ c. brown sugar

1 c. corn syrup

1 tsp. pure vanilla

1-1/2 c. pecan halves

Whipped cream, optional

Preheat the oven to 400.

Place the butter and 4 ounces of the chocolate in the top of a double boiler over simmering water. (Be sure the water is not touching the bottom of the top pan.) While the chocolate and butter are melting, line a 9 inch pie plate with the dough. Trim, and flute the edge high. Set aside. When the chocolate is melted, stir with a rubber spatula to smooth it out. Remove the bowl to the counter to cool slightly while you prepare the rest of the filling.

Crack the eggs into a mixing bowl and beat lightly with a fork. Brush a little of the beaten egg onto the prepared pie crust. To the beaten eggs, add the brown sugar and stir to combine. Add the vanilla and corn syrup, mix well. Add the slightly cooled, melted chocolate, stir to combine.

Next, stir in the remaining 4 ounces of coarsely chopped chocolate and the pecan halves, stirring to combine. Scrape into the prepared pie crust.

Place in the preheated oven and bake at 400 degrees for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes reduce heat to 350 and bake for another 25 to 30 minutes or until a knife inserted about halfway between the edge and center of the pie comes clean.

Remove the pie to a wire rack to cool completely.

Over Abundance

2011-11-14T19:16:00.000-08:00

It had been a long time since I’d made stuffed peppers, but it was the perfect way to use all those magnificent peppers. Our plants produced bushels of them. So many peppers to put by, use, and give away—and we did all of those things.

After I’d put by all the peppers our freezer could hold, given away as many as our neighbors and friends would take, there was still a bushel of peppers on our porch. So, I pulled out my stuffed pepper recipe and got busy! We ate stuffed peppers for several days. When they were gone, I made more. The slightly crunchy texture and the nutty flavor of the rice medley combined with the tartness of the tomatoes enhanced by the basil and parsley was absolutely delicious. Can’t wait to make these again next harvest season. Here’s to an over abundance of green peppers!

Note for this recipe: Rice Medley is a mixture of rices we purchase at the local Coop. It contains brown rice, wild rice, long grain rice among others. White rice can be substituted, but flavor and texture suffer. If substituting white rice reduce water to four cups and cooking time to 20 minutes.

Stuffed Green Peppers

2 c. rice medley mix

1 tsp. salt

8 green peppers

Olive oil

1 small onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

1 small summer squash, diced (about 1 c.)

1 tomato, diced

1 stalk celery, diced

¼ c. chopped parsley

¼ chopped basil

Parmesan cheese

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Place rice medley mix in a pan with a lid, add 4-1/2 c. water and 1 tsp. salt. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 40 to 45 minutes until all the water has been absorbed.

Set a large pot filled with water on the stove. Cover and bring to a boil. While the water is hearting, slice off a small piece from the top of each pepper. Carefully remove any remaining seeds and filaments and discard. When the water boils add 1 tsp. salt.

Place the prepared green peppers into the boiling water. Blanche peppers for approximately 1 to 2 minutes. Peppers should still be bright green and not be more than slightly softened.

When the rice is cooked, select a heat-proof pan large enough to hold the peppers and set aside. Preheat oven to 350. Place a large skillet on the stove, turn mead to medium and add enough olive to coat the bottom. When the oil is hot add the onion, garlic and vegetables. Sauté until vegetables are just tender. Stir in about 3 cups cooked rice and the herbs. Mix to combine. Add more rice if necessary. Season with Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste. Stuff the peppers gently tamping the mixture to remove air bubbles. Set the stuffed peppers into the selected heat-proof pan. Sprinkle to top of each pepper with a little Parmesan cheese.

Open the oven door and pull out the rack. Place the pan on the ack and fill with two inches of water. (Water should come half way up the peppers.) Carefully slide the rack into the oven. Bake the peppers until the peppers are softened, the stuffing is heated through and the cheese has browned.

Remove the peppers to a serving dish with sides. Serve immediately. Store and uneaten peppers in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

Feel Free to Quote Me

2011-08-28T15:22:00.000-07:00

We’re late-comers to Fried Green Tomatoes. Neither DH nor I have any memory of our mothers (who did most of the cooking in our childhood homes) preparing Fried Green Tomatoes. Orion, my father in law, was pleasantly surprised the first time I prepared this dish for him. About halfway through his second serving, Orion told DH & me that his mother used to make Fried Green Tomatoes, but mine tasted different. The difference in taste would be due to three things—Orion’s mother most likely used flour instead of corn meal and may have given the slices a wet treatment (dipped in egg or milk/buttermilk) before dipping them in flour, and she would have pan fried them either in lard or bacon fat. There are many recipes for the preparation of Fried Green Tomatoes, and the one below is based on nothing more than our preference for the simple and uncomplicated and our desire to experience the delicious flavor of the green tomato.

What I wanted to know was the history of fried green tomatoes. My research produced something interesting—fried green tomatoes were brought here after the Civil War by Jewish immigrants. Really? Both tomatoes and corn are native to the Americas. Are we really supposed to believe that the indigenous peoples of North and South America never thought of combining corn meal and green tomatoes? Well, somebody might believe these conclusions, but I do not.

What I believe, and this is purely speculation, is that green tomatoes and corn meal were indeed combined by indigenous peoples. As iron was unknown to these cultures prior to the arrival of Europeans, their corn meal dredged green tomato slices were most likely “grilled” on hot rocks. As tomatoes are native to Peru, it would not be at all surprising to find some form of “fried” green tomatoes in ancient Andean cuisine. It would not be at all surprising to find some version of "fried" green tomatoes in any or all indigenous cuisines of the Americas. Even if this is nothing more than speculation on my part, it is completely unbelievable that fried green tomatoes were unknown in the Americas until brought here by Jewish immigrants in the 1890’s. That is pure poppycock! Feel free to quote me.

Notes for this recipe: The amount of cornmeal needed will depend on the number of slices to be coated. Do not crowd the slices in the skillet. Give them room to cook and be moved. Slices must be seared on the outside and then cooked slowly creating a crispy cornmeal coating and a sweet soft interior. Achieving this takes patience and practice, but is definitely worth the effort.

Fried Green Tomatoes

Green tomatoes

Corn meal

Kosher salt

Fresh ground black pepper

Olive oil

Wash and dry tomatoes, and cut them into thick slabs between ¼ and 1/2 inch thick. Select a flat-bottomed plate with sides (or a large pie plate). Measure out ½ cup corn meal and pour it onto the plate, add a hefty pinch of salt and a good grind of black pepper, and mix with fingers to combine. Set aside. Preheat oven to 170. Place a paper towel on a heat-proof plate and put it in the oven.

Place a heavy flat-bottomed skillet (preferably cast iron) on the stove. Turn the heat to the low side of medium-high. Pour about ¼ inch of olive oil into the skillet. The oil should be hot, but not smoking. It is ready when a few drops of water flicked with the fingers into the oil sputters and evaporates on contact.

While the oil is heating, press the tomato slices one at a time into the corn meal thoroughly covering both surfaces of each slice. When the oil it ready, put the slices into the skillet and pan fry until golden brown. Turn over and pan fry until golden brown and the inside is tender. About 5 minutes per side. Remove to the paper towel covered plate in the oven. Repeat with remaining slices, adding more oil as needed. (Be sure to bring oil up to the proper temperature.) Eat immediately.

Variation on a Theme

2011-08-25T17:34:00.000-07:00

Our garden is coming in. What we have too much of varies from year-to-year. This year we have too much summer squash. When casting about for new and interesting ways to prepare this vegetable, I thought about the Zucchini Fritters Adele made for us several years ago when bushels of this torpedo-sized vegetable threatened the collapse of our porch. Off I went on a virtual journey to Adele’s blog--Tales of the Basil Queen. What a journey. Adele loves to cook and bake—creative, inventive and intrepid, she dares to go where only the most seasoned of cooks cares to venture.

Reading the Basil Queen’s Zucchini Fritter post the taste and texture memory of these wonderful appetizers lived vividly in my mind, even after the passage of several years. I knew that not only would the recipe transfer to summer squash, but that it would do so very nicely.

Adele’s Zucchini Fritters are appetizer-sized morsels of deliciousness. I wanted entre-sized portions, which was going to require a slight change in texture to support the larger size, and a little flavor enhancement for good measure. After a trial or two, I settled on adding just a little bit of cornmeal and some minced onion and summer savory. The end result--a very nice variation on a theme.

Notes for this recipe: My herb of choice for this recipe is summer savory. It can be difficult to find, but well worth the effort. We grow this herb, so my search doesn’t go any farther than the garden. You can also use other herbs. Basil or cilantro would be excellent choices. If using dried herbs, reduce the amount to 1 tsp.

Summer Squash Fritters

2 very large or 5 or 6 smaller summer squash

1 Tbsp. Kosher salt

¼ cup finely minced onion

2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh summer savory

½ c. milk

1 egg

1/ 2 c. flour
1 tsp. baking soda

1 Tbsp. corn meal

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp. kosher salt

Olive oil

Sea salt

If using a large summer squash, cut it in half and remove the seeds. Grate summer squash using a food processor or box grater. Place the grated summer squash in a bowl, add the tablespoon of Kosher salt, and stir with a rubber spatula, mix to combine. Set aside and let sit for 30 minutes.

During the 30 minutes mince the onion and summer savory, and set aside. Measure the milk into a glass 2 cup measure, add the egg, and beat with a fork until combined, and set aside. Measure the flour, the baking soda, and corn meal into a bowl, add a good grind of black pepper, and the Kosher salt. Stir to combine and set aside.

When the 30 minutes have gone by, place a colander in the sink and scrape the summer squash into it. Using your hands, squeeze as much liquid as possible from the summer squash. When the squash is dry measure out two cups into a mixing bowl. Set aside.

Preheat oven to 170. Line a heat proof plate with a paper towel and place in the oven. Place a heavy flat bottomed skillet (preferably cast iron) on the stove, turn the heat on to the low side of medium high, and pour in about ¼ inch of olive oil.

While the oil is heating, add the flour mixture to the summer squash and mix in. Add the milk mixture, the minced onion and summer savory, and stir just until combined. Check the oil in the skillet. The oil must be hot, but not smoking. To check if the oil is ready, dip your fingers in a little water and flick them towards the heating oil. If the oil sputters and the water evaporates on contact, the proper temperature has been reached.

Using a metal ¼ c. solid measure or a ¼ c. scoop drop mounds of the summer squash mixture into the heated oil. Flatten slightly.

When golden brown, turn the fritter over and cook the other side until nicely golden brown.

Remove to paper towel-lined plate in the oven and repeat with remaining batter, adding oil as needed. (Be sure to heat the oil to the proper temperature before adding more batter.) Just before serving, grind a little sea salt over the fritters. Serve immediately.

Distinctly American

2011-08-12T09:01:00.000-07:00

Chemically leavened with an open crumb texture, the muffin is perhaps one of the most American of foods. Yes, the British have the yeast-based crumpet (what we can an English muffin), but the chemically leavened muffin is distinctly American.

In the 1980s muffins underwent a metamorphosis--they went from being standard and rather ordinary fare to being anything but. They can be sweet or savory; chemically or yeast leavened; tiny, regular or jumbo; have a snazzy topping or not--but no matter which—they are delicious. In our household we tend to prefer the simpler, more traditional muffins. Our general rule, if it’s too sweet to tolerate a pat of butter, it’s not a muffin.

It’s blueberry season in Vermont, and as I was casting about for something blueberry when this recipe came to mind. Easy and quick these muffins are moist, not too sweet, and chock full of blueberries. Although you can put a pat of butter on them, they do very well without. And, yes, the photographs show ingredients for a double batch -- my solution to the rapid consumption problem!

Notes for this recipe: Do not over mix when adding the flour and milk or when folding in the blueberries. Over mixing will result in a less tender muffin.

Blueberry Muffins

2-1/2 c. blueberries, divided

2 c. flour

2 tsp. baking powder

¼ tsp. salt

½ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg (1 tsp. jarred)

½ c. milk

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

½ c. unsalted butter, room temperature

1 c. brown sugar

2 eggs

Preheat oven to 375. Grease 12 regular muffins cups or line with papers. Set aside.

In a small bowl mash the ½ cup blueberries with a potato masher being sure to pop all of them. Set aside. In a bowl combine flour, baking powder, salt, and nutmeg. Stir to combine. Set aside. Measure milk into a measuring cup, add vanilla extract, and set aside.

In a medium-large bowl beat the butter on high speed until pale and light. Add the brown sugar and beat until the mixture is very fluffy. Beat in the eggs one at a time. Add 1/3 of the flour mixture at a time alternately with ½ of the milk/vanilla mixture, beginning and ending with the flour. Mix only until combined. Fold in the mashed blueberries, just until combined. Fold in the remaining blueberries.

Using a ¼ c. scoop fill the muffin cups with batter. Bake 15 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown and a tester inserted into the middle comes clean.

Remove muffin tin to a wire rack to cool for 10 minutes. Use a knife to loosen muffins from the tins and carefully remove to wire racks to cool completely.

No Matter How You Slice It

2011-07-24T19:20:00.000-07:00

During the Vermont summer we move from one fresh fruit to the next. It’s July and we are now smack in the middle of raspberry season. Up here we have a choice of pick-your-own at a nearby farm or a nearby thicket. Raspberries can also be purchased at farm stands and farmer’s markets. And, yes, they an also be purchased at the local supermarket, but the flavor of these commercial berries is so noticeably inferior, why would we?!

There are so many ways to prepare raspberries—pies, muffins, shortcakes, ice cream, jams (to name a few), but my absolute favorite is Raspberry Slice. I discovered this delectable dessert many years ago in a cookbook published in England—a cherished gift from a friend and my introduction to the delights of European baking.

The elegant presentation of the Raspberry Slice belies its simplicity. The flavor and texture are positively rapturous. No matter how you slice it, Raspberry Slice is absolutely delectable.

Notes for this recipe: When preparing the genoise do not over beat or over mix as this causes the texture to be coarse and increases the chances that the cake will fall during cooling. The genoise can be made one day in advance. To store: cool completely, wrap carefully in plastic wrap, place on an open sided cookie sheet and store in the refrigerator. This dessert is not a keeper and must be eaten within several hours of assembly. Organic heavy cream is recommended due to its superior flavor and whipped texture. Double boiler: make your own using two stainless steel bowls (see the picture below). Cutting and serving: Use a very sharp knife (to cut cleanly) and a cake server (to support the slice during cutting) simultaneously for cutting and serving. Finally, my apologies for the pictures--working alone has its drawbacks!

Raspberry Slice

1 recipe genoise baked in a sheet pan (recipe below)

1 pint heavy cream (preferably organic)

Splash of pure vanilla extract

1 quart fresh raspberries

Cut the genoise into four equal sections each about 4 inches wide. Select a platter for the cake and set aside. Put the heavy cream in a bowl, add the splash of vanilla extract and whip the cream.

Place one section of the genoise on the selected platter and spread with about ¼ of the whipped cream and top with 1/4 of the raspberries.

Repeat with 2 of the 3 remaining layers. Put the last slice of genoise in place and pipe 2 heavy lines of whipped cream down the sides of the slice. Pipe rosettes at each end and around the base of the slice.

Carefully fill the space between the piped lines with the remaining raspberries. Serve immediately or chill up to 2 hours before serving allowing the cake to sit at room temperature for 20 minutes before serving. Cut the cake with a sharp knife.

Genoise:

6 large eggs, room temperature

1 c. sugar

1 c. flour, sifted with a pinch of salt

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

3 Tbsp, unsalted (sweet) butter, melted

Preheat oven to 350. Butter two 8-inch round baking pans or one 11-1/2 x 15-1/2 inch sheet pan. Line the bottom with parchment paper. Butter and flour the parchment paper. Set pan(s) aside.

In a bowl over simmering water gently whisk the eggs and sugar until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture is lukewarm.

When the mixture is lukewarm, remove the bowl to the countertop. Beat the egg and sugar mixture with a hand mixer at high speed until it becomes thick and pale. The mixture will fall in a thick ribbon from a rubber spatula and mound on top of the batter for several seconds before sinking when it is ready.

Sift the flour over the batter and gently fold in, only until it is mixed in. Drizzle the butter over the batter, add the vanilla, and gently fold in only until incorporated.

Pour the batter into prepared pans. Bake until the cake pulls away from the edges of the pan, is lightly golden, springs back when gently touched, and tests clean in the center. About 15 to 20 minutes.

Remove cakes to wire rack. Cool in the pans for 10 minutes. Run a knife around the edges and very gently turn the cakes onto wire racks. Gently remove the parchment. Cool the cakes completely.

Summertime Favorite

2011-07-04T20:31:00.000-07:00

Potato Salad is a favorite summertime side dish. We serve it at barbecues and picnics with hot dogs and hamburgers. It is considered an important part of the “fixings.” But, not all potato salad is created equal. Actually, most potato salads hold a distinguished place on my Scary Food List.

I grew up with American-style potato salad: over-cooked potatoes drowning in commercial mayonnaise, or even worse---sandwich spread. The addition of chopped celery, green peppers and onion would sometimes redeem these mayonnaise-drenched side dishes. The addition of hard-boiled eggs was an instant no go. I’m a real hard-boiled egg fan, and I am quite partial to Deviled Eggs, but in potato salad? No thank you.

For this potato fan, German Potato Salad was a revelation. It is easy to prepare and travels well. Best of all, potato salad never tasted so good.

Notes: Do's: Yellow onion can be substituted for red onion; Red potatoes can be substituted for Yukon Golds; Curly parsley can be substituted for flat leaf parsley; Select potatoes that are about the same size Don't: Substitute yellow mustard for the Dijon; Over cook the potatoes or allow them to sit in the water once they are cooked, as this will cause them to be mushy; Peel the potatoes before or after cooking.

German Potato Salad

2 lbs. Yukon Gold potatoes

4 Tbsp. chopped red onion

1 clove garlic, mined

1 Tbsp. capers, rinsed and drained

2 Tbsp. chopped fresh dill

2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh flat leaf parsley

1 tsp. Kosher salt

1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

3 to 4 Tbsp. olive oil

3 Tbsp. white wine vinegar

1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

1 tsp. red peppercorns, crushed (optional)

Put the potatoes in a large pot with salted water to cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and lightly boil potatoes until they just tender and test done with a paring knife. (When the potatoes are "just" tender, there should be a little resistance to the knife as it pierces the flesh.) Watch potatoes carefully and be sure not to over cook them. Drain the potatoes in a colander and rinse with cold water. Drain well, and cool only enough for them to be easily handled.

If the potatoes are large cut them in quarters or halves, leave small
potatoes whole. Do not peel. Put the potatoes in a mixing bowl and add the remaining ingredients.

Gently mix with a rubber spatula coating the potatoes well.

Serve the salad slightly warm or cool completely--about 30 minutes, before covering tightly and placing in the refrigerator. Allow the salad to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving. Adjust seasoning and serve. Store any leftovers tightly covered in the refrigerator.

Short, But Ever So Sweet

2011-07-04T14:18:00.000-07:00

Strawberry season means that summer in Vermont has arrived. The season is short, but ever so sweet. This year we picked late, but found the berries plentiful and flavorful, in spite of the wet growing season. Too much rain during the ripening of berries can water log the fruit often resulting in a less flavorful berry.

Strawberries are one of my favorite fruits. As a kid every strawberry season I’d break out in hives from over indulging. As an adult, practicing restraint remains a challenge! Although I love strawberries and know how to grow and prepare them (in ohh so many ways) I realized that I didn’t know all that much about their origin, and decided to do some research. Here is what I learned:

Strawberries are a member of the rose family, and the strawberry itself is what is known as a “false fruit.” The actual fruits are the 200 or so “seeds” that dot the surface the berry. Each of these “seeds” is a teeny tiny fruit containing a single seed.

Strawberries are native to Eurasia and the Americas, and have been cultivated for centuries. Romans cultivated strawberries and believed them to alleviate many medical conditions, including gout, melancholy, and infection. The French began cultivating strawberries in the 14^th century, and believed them to be an aphrodisiac.

In the Americas although wild strawberries were plentiful they were cultivated by indigenous peoples on both continents. Colonists relied on the ready availability of wild strawberries. In the mid 1700’s when the expansion of settlements made the harvesting of strawberries in the wild difficult, colonists began selecting for cultivation the plants that produced the largest fruit.

The earliest recorded existence of an American strawberry species in Europe is in England in 1624. South American strawberry species produced larger fruit, and were brought back to Europe from Chile early in the 18^th century by a man named Frezier. (Anyone want to guess where “fraise” the French word for strawberry came from?) And the rest is horticultural history!

Notes for this recipe: For best results use only fresh, in season native strawberries. Cloves and mace may seem like odd choices for a strawberry recipe, but this paring is no accident. After years of experimentation, my dislike for the overuse of cinnamon coupled with my belief this spice does nothing to compliment the delicate strawberry, I finally settled on clove and mace. These two spices add a fresh cool dimension to the pie and enhance the subtle flavor of the magnificent strawberry. Yes, the pie in the picture was baked in a cast iron skillet, the precursor to Pyrex.

Strawberry Pie

1 recipe Double Pie Crust

2 lbs. strawberries, hulled, halved & if very large, quartered

¼ c. tapioca

¼ c. sugar

1/8 tsp. mace

1/8 tsp cloves

1 Tbsp. unsalted butter

1 9” pie plate

Prepare pie crust, wrap in wax paper and place in refrigerator while preparing strawberries.

Place prepared strawberries, tapioca, sugar, mace and cloves in a large bowl. Mix gently with a rubber spatula to combine. Set aside to macerate and juice for about 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 425. Roll out half of the pie crust and fit into selected pie plate. Trim so edge of pie crust hangs slightly below the lip of the pie plate. Using the rubber spatula, scrape the prepared berries into the pie crust. Roll out the remaining pie crust. Fold into quarters and cut to create decorate vents. Place folded crust on top of the berries.

Unfold and stretch ever so slightly to open vents. Trim crust to hang slightly below bottom crust. To seal the crusts and create the edge, fold the upper crust under the lower crust, pinch and flute.

Place the pie in the oven and bake at 425 for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, reduce heat to 350 and bake until juices are bubbling through the center vents in the top crust—about 30 to 45 minutes.

Remove pie to a wire tack and cool completely or serve warm with whipped cream or ice cream. Store any leftover pie tightly covered in the refrigerator.

Dessert in a Pinch

2011-05-07T18:01:00.000-07:00

Every cook needs to have a dessert recipe that is quick and easy to make for those “dessert in a pinch” moments. With about a 10 minute preparation time these bars have saved my proverbial bacon on numerous occasions. The bars travel extremely well making them ideal for picnics and pot luck suppers. They look and taste fabulous belying their ease and simplicity. Best of all, my family loves them--which explains why there isn't a picture of the bars stacked on the serving plate!

Notes for this recipe: Almost any flavor jam can be used for this recipe. I prefer deeply colored jams as they provide the best color contrast. (DH's favorite is Black Currant.) To soften butter quickly: place the butter in the microwave for approx. 10 to 12 seconds.

Strawberry Crumb Bars

1-1/2 c. unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 c. confectioner’s sugar

1/2 tsp. vanilla

2-2/3 c. flour

1 c. rolled oats

1 c. good quality strawberry jam

Preheat oven to 350. Select a 9x13 inch pan and lightly grease with butter. Set aside.

Cream the butter at medium speed. Add the confectioner’s sugar and vanilla and blend on medium speed until combined. Blend in the flour and rolled oats.

Press 2/3 of the dough evenly over the bottom of the pan.

Spread the jam evenly over the dough.

Pinch pieces of the remaining dough on top of the jam.

Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until the edges and topping is lightly browned. Remove to a cooling rack. Cut into bars while still warm. When cooled completely, remove the bars from the pan and store in an airtight container.

End of an Era

2011-03-30T19:43:00.000-07:00

Madame Renee was an avid animal rights advocate. She adopted stray cats, fed the seagulls and squirrels, and could often be seen in City Hall Park feeding the pigeons. Every year Renee sponsored a bazaar to benefit Save the Seals, one of the many animal rights organizations she supported. My job at the bazaars was to run the kitchen, which I did with my most able assistant—Laura, Renee’s niece. The menu was always simple, well-prepared fare of sandwiches and salad. It always contained two of Renee’s many specialties—her mushrooms and her salad dressing. I can not count the number of times someone would come into the kitchen, pull me aside and ask if I knew how to make these specialties. A vow of secrecy kept me mum about the salad dressing, but I truly did not know how to make the mushrooms. One afternoon Madame Renee invited me to her home and told me with great sadness over a cup of tea that she would no longer be holding her annual bazaar, “Sweetie, it is too much for me now.” It was the end of an era.

A year or so after Madame Renee died her niece Laura and I were having lunch. Our conversation meandered as it always does when good friends chat. We had covered quite a bit of territory, including our shared kitchen duty at Renee’s bazaars. Laura asked if I knew how to make Renee’s mushrooms. I told Laura that I thought I knew how to make them, but that I never actually had. I explained that one day when I was visiting Renee, she was cooking some mushrooms she had just finished preparing.
And that Renee had then proceeded to explain how she prepared the mushrooms and how they needed to be cooked. This was a great privilege for me as these mushrooms were one of Renee’s great secrets.

Laura has asked several more times since then about Renee’s Mushrooms, and each time I’ve explained that I wasn’t ready to begin recreating the recipe. Last fall when Laura and I lunched together, I promised that the recipe would be ready when she returned to Vermont in the spring. The better part of the winter was spent giving the recipe tremendous amounts of head time. Relying on my taste memory, and what I remembered of Renee’s instructions (I never did write them down), I began recreating Renee’s mushrooms. As he’d eaten Renee’s mushrooms many times, DH was my primary taster for this project. On the second go round we nailed it! My promise to Laura has been fulfilled and Renee’s mushrooms will live on. It is with great pleasure that I post here Renee’s Mushrooms.

Renee’s Mushrooms can be used as garnish, sliced and put in salads, or as part of an antipasto platter. They can also be sliced and put in sandwiches, pasta salads, or eaten by themselves.

Notes for this recipe: Renee always peeled her mushrooms. Although the peel can be left on, Renee said peeling produced a more tender mushroom. Rolling the peeled mushrooms in lemon juice prevents them turning brown. The cooking liquid from the mushrooms can be used in soup stock or sauces.

Renee’s Mushrooms

10 to 15 white mushrooms

2 lemons

Italian parsley (flat leaf parsley)

Kosher salt

White pepper

Water

Select a non-reactive saucepan with a lid large enough to comfortably hold the mushrooms. Juice the lemons into the selected pan, reserving one of the juiced lemon halves. Gently brush any dirt off of the mushrooms. Remove the stems and set aside for another use. Peel the mushrooms.

Gently hold the mushroom with the cap facing your palm. Place the blade of a paring knife against the lip of the cap where it curls towards the gills. Pick up the skin with the edge of the blade and pull it towards your palm. It will probably come off in a wedge-shaped piece.

Roll immediately in the lemon juice, and leave in the saucepan.

When all the mushrooms are peeled and acidified fill the saucepan with enough water to cover the mushrooms. Add the reserved juiced lemon half, about six good-sized sprigs of parsley, a healthy pinch of Kosher salt and a good grind of white pepper. Place the pan on the burner and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and gently simmer the mushrooms until they are cooked through and tender, about 20 minutes. The mushrooms will reduce in size considerably during cooking.

Remove the mushrooms from the liquid to an airtight container with a lid. Cool completely. Store the cooled mushrooms, covered in the refrigerator. Use within 2 days.

Nix the Jalapeno

2011-03-23T19:43:00.000-07:00

I’m a late comer to chili. For many years it held a distinguished place on my scary food list. In my culinary world food with enough heat to sear the flesh off the roof of one’s mouth is not consumption worthy. Food is about flavor and texture, and heat is not a flavor and it is definitely not a texture. This was the primary reason for chili earning a spot of my scary food list. Secondary reasons--too much beef and a tomato sauce that had far too much in common with ketchup.

Then one day I stumbled across a low-fat cookbook with some very creative “facelifts” for classic foods. It contained an impressive array of ideas. The recipe for chili had distinct possibilities. So I decided to give it a whirl.

The first thing I did was to nix the jalapeno. For me, this pepper has no flavor and its only purpose is to add heat. At the time of my chili experimentation, DH was growing some interesting pepper varieties, which we were enjoying grilled and sautéed. So, out went the jalapeno and in went Hungarian Hot Wax and Poblanos! The result was delicious. The chili had a smooth flavor with a hint of smokiness and a mild to moderate heat that complimented, but did not dominate or overwhelm it the flavor. The addition of kidney beans and corn helped round out the texture and added another dimension of flavor.

Notes for this recipe: The higher the quality of ground beef, the better the chili will taste. Use only the freshest spices. I purchase my spices from Penzey's. (Do not be fooled by the labels on the bottles in the picture, I buy my spices in bulk and reuse bottles.) Adding the flour is optional. It is added to thicken the chili and shorten the cooking time making this dish suitable for family meal preparation.

Chili Con Carne

1 lb. lean ground beef

Olive oil

6 good sized cloves of garlic, peeled & chopped

1 onion, chopped

1 large green pepper, seeded & chopped

1 small Poblano pepper, seeded & chopped

1 Hungarian hot wax pepper, seeded & chopped

2 Tbsp. chili powder

1 Tbsp. flour (optional)

2 tsp. cumin

1 tsp. oregano

2 bay leaves

2 quarts tomatoes or 2 14 oz. cans

1 tsp. kosher salt

1 15 oz. can dark red kidney beans, rinsed & drained

2 c. frozen corn

Grated sharp cheddar cheese to garnish

Select a 2 quart non-reactive pot and pour in about 2 Tbsp. olive oil, or enough to lightly cover the bottom of the pan. Turn heat to medium and heat oil to hot, but not smoking. Add the garlic, onion and peppers. Cook until the garlic is fragrant, the onion is translucent, and the peppers are softened, about 3 minutes.

Add the ground beef. Break it up with a wooden spoon and stir to mix in the peppers, onion and garlic. Cook until beef is no longer pink. Add the spices and flour, and stir to combine. Add the tomatoes breaking them up with the wooden spoon. Stir to combine. Bring to a boil, stirring frequently. Reduce heat to medium. Stir in the kidney beans and corn. Cover and simmer until the chili is heated through and slightly thickened, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes. Adjust

seasoning. Serve with grated cheddar and corn bread sticks or a hearty bread.

Carefully Guarded Secrets

2011-02-08T20:50:00.000-08:00

Baked Beans are as American as Apple Pie, pre-American actually--Indian Baked Beans would be a more accurate name. Native to North America beans were among the first cultivated crops along with maize and squash. These crops were called the Three Sisters and were staples of the Native American diet. Native Americans of the Northeast sweetened their baked beans with maple syrup and cooked them in earthenware pots buried in coals to cook over night or longer. Colonists were not unfamiliar with beans, which had been known in Europe since the middle of the sixteenth century. They adopted the Native American method of cooking beans substituting molasses for the maple syrup, and the dish became an important part of their diet as well.

I grew up in New England, and every woman of my childhood made Baked Beans. They were brought to Church, American Legion, and family pot luck suppers and picnics. The Baked Beans of my childhood were sweetened with molasses, and every recipe varied just a little. Women took great pride in their Baked Beans and the ingredients were carefully guarded secrets. It wasn’t until moving to Vermont that I encountered Baked Beans sweetened with maple syrup. These beans had a more subtle flavor and were absolutely delicious. So delicious that I became a convert—no more molasses in Baked Beans for me! It took a while to get the recipe just right. I broke with tradition by substituting bacon for the salt pork normally used in Baked Beans, and this cook thinks it is a flavor change for the better. Hope you agree. Enjoy!

Notes for this recipe: When simmering the beans, do NOT over cook them. It is important that the beans be cooked only to just tender. If the beans split, you will need to start over with new beans. For the best flavor, use Grade B maple syrup. Maple Sugar can be difficult to find, but not impossible. Mine is purchased at The Morse Farm—click here for their link. Navy Beans are the beans of choice for Baked Beans. Their small size and smooth, creamy texture when cooked are perfect for this dish. For a vegetarian version of this dish, just eliminate the bacon. Bean pots are traditionally used for making Baked Beans as the narrow mouth helps reduce evaporation, but any large heavy casserole or Dutch oven with a tight fitting lid can be used.

Unfortunately, I did not take a picture of the finished beans, which I will remedy next time this dish is made. The picture above is one taken after the liquor was added, but before the beans were cooked. The picture below shows the ingredients doubled for a hoard-sized gathering.

Maple Baked Beans

1 large whole onion, peeled

3 slices bacon, halved

½ c. Grade B maple syrup
¼ c. maple sugar

1 tsp. dry mustard

1 tsp. kosher salt

¼ tsp. white pepper

1 lb. (approx. 2 c.) dried Navy Beans

Wash beans and place in a large bowl or pot. Fill the pot with cold water, covering the beans to at least two inches above the level of the beans. Set aside to soak over night. In the morning, drain and rinse the beans. Return to the pot and cover with fresh cold water. Set the pot on the stove, and bring to a boil. Cover and reduce heat. Simmer beans 1 to 2 hours or until just tender. Drain the beans, reserving the liquor (cooking liquid). Thoroughly rinse the beans. (Alternately: Place beans in a large pan. Cover with cold water. Place on the stove and bring to a full roiling boil. Cook beans at full rolling boil for 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Cover and let stand for 1 hour. Drain beans and rinse. Return to pot and cover with fresh cold water. Bring to a full rolling boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 1 to 1-1/2 hours or until beans are just tender. Add boiling water as necessary, to keep beans covered. Drain beans and reserve the liquor.)

Preheat the oven to 300. Put the beans in a 2 quart bean pot or oven proof Dutch oven with a tight fitting lid. Push the onion down into the middle of the beans. Next, push the bacon down into the beans. Pour the reserved bean liquor into a 4 cup measure, add enough water to make four cups and set aside. In a small bowl mix the maple syrup, maple sugar, dried mustard, salt and a good grind of white pepper, stir to combine, and pour over the beans. Pour in enough of the reserved bean liquor to cover the beans. Set any unused liquor aside. Place the bean pot in the preheated oven. Bake for 8 hours. Remove lid for the last hour or two of cooking. With a long-handled, heat-proof fork pull the bacon to the surface. If the beans begin to dry out, heat the reserved liquor to just boiling and pour enough over beans to keep them covered. Repeat as necessary.

When the beans are cooked, remove the onion and bacon to a plate and serve separately. Serve the beans in the bean pot with a long handled spoon. Sit back and enjoy the compliments.

Foreigners From Beyond The Rha

2011-01-25T19:28:00.000-08:00

Rhubarb is an ancient plant. In China it has been used medicinally for thousands of years. A different variety of rhubarb has grown wild along the River Volga for centuries. The word rhubarb comes to us from the ancient Greeks. Rha is the ancient Greek name for the Volga region and barbarian is the ancient Greek word for foreigner, or, "foreigners from beyond the Rha."

Marco Polo returned from China with tales of rhubarb. Its first known recorded presence in Europe was in Italy in the early 1600’s and from there it spread across Europe. Within 150 years rhubarb was classified as a food plant in Europe.

Rhubarb is not native to North America. Exactly how it was imported to this country is unknown, but by the 1820’s it was readily available in farmer’s markets in Massachusetts. Food historians believe that shortly after the Revolutionary War rhubarb seeds or rhizomes entered this country through Maine and were cultivated by a gardener whose name has not survived in written record. Although a vegetable, rhubarb was classified as a fruit due to the financial regulatory benefits of such a classification.

The leaves and stalks of the rhubarb plant contain a powerful toxin—oxalic acid. It is believed that the leaves contain a second toxin, the identity of which remains as yet unconfirmed. This second toxin is not present in the stalks, which also have much less oxalic acid making them safe for us to eat.

My personal journey with rhubarb began many years ago, and it is a favorite consumable in our home. It gets used in many ways--jams, pies, crisps, and kuchens are among the favorites. It also gets frozen for winter use, which means we eat rhubarb all year long. When I was baking professionally, rhubarb baked goods were among the most popular. My customers couldn’t get enough of the stuff. One of their favorites, Rhubarb Streusel Pie, is also one of my family’s favorites. This recipe settled into its present form about six years ago. It is a tried and true favorite, and I am very happy to share it here. Enjoy!

Notes for this recipe: Fresh or frozen rhubarb can be used for this recipe. Frozen rhubarb must be thawed, don't be concerned about extra liquid, it will be thickened successfully by the tapioca during baking. I turned to tapioca as a thickening agent for pies many years ago due to unsatisfactory results from flour and cornstarch. Use quick cooking tapioca also known as tapioca granules. Try to use stalks with a lovely red or rosy color. Do NOT peel the rhubarb.

Rhubarb Streusel Pie

For the Filling:

½ c. brown sugar

3 Tbsp. tapioca (4 Tbsp. if rhubarb is frozen)

2 tsp. ginger

2 lbs. trimmed rhubarb, cut into 1 inch pieces (approx. 6 good-sized stalks)

9” single unbaked pie crust (Click for link to my recipe for pie crust)

Streusel topping:

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened

¾ c. flour

¼ c. oats

1 tsp. ginger

½ c. brown sugar

In a large bowl combine all the filling ingredients and set aside. This allows the rhubarb to juice while the crust is rolled out and the streusel topping is prepared.

Preheat oven to 450.

Roll out the crust and place into a 9” pie crust. Crimp the edges high. Set aside.

For the topping: Place all the ingredients in a medium bowl. With your fingers rub the ingredients to mix. The mixture will be crumbly. Set aside.

Scrape the filling into the prepared pie crust and smooth over.

Sprinkle the topping evenly over the filling being sure to cover to the edge. Place the pie in the oven.

Bake at 450 for 20 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 and bake for 45 minutes to an hour or until the pie is done. Filling should be bubbling close to the center. Remove pie to a rack and cool completely. If desired, the pie can be served slightly warm.

A Favorite Family Food Tradition--Special Breakfast

2011-01-19T17:46:00.000-08:00

Archeologists believe that the pancake is one of the oldest grain based foods. The original pancake was not unlike those consumed in many of today's world cultures. The pancakes of ancient cultures were made from seed and grain based flours moistened with eggs and milk and cooked on hot flat stones. Most regions of our world have a pancake-like food in their culinary traditions. Among them, Central and Eastern Europe, Asia, Europe, the United Kingdom, North, Central, and South America, and Africa.

Pancakes can be sweet or savory. Some are made with a yeast-based batter, but most are classified as quick breads, which means they use baking soda and baking powder as a leavening agent. The type of flour used also varies—buckwheat, corn flour or corn meal, oatmeal, and “plain” flour are among the most common. Over the years we’ve tried many different types of pancakes, but always return to our cultural pancake roots. It is these pancakes that serve as the foundation for one of our favorite family food traditions—Special Breakfast.

The tradition of a special Sunday breakfast began when Bella was very little. Sunday was the lazy day, and a Special Breakfast helped set the tone for our day. These Special Breakfasts were among Bella’s first adventures in cooking, and how she learned to measure. Bella remembers having to get off her stool to check the level of the buttermilk in the measuring cup before pouring it into the flour. Her favorite part was using the egg beater to mix the batter. Often when DH was away on business, Bella and I would make Blueberry Pancakes for supper.

Special Breakfast has survived the test of time. When Bella is home it is a rare instance when we do not have Special Breakfast one morning, which more often than not is Blueberry Pancakes. It also includes orange juice and/or a half a grapefruit (or some other fruit), bacon and/or sausage, warmed Vermont maple syrup, unsalted butter, coffee and tea. Often the smell of bacon cooking brings Bella sleepy-eyed into the kitchen to pour herself a cup of tea and help flip.

Notes for this recipe: Cast iron skillets and griddles produce the best pancakes, period. If you don’t have a cast iron skillet, I encourage you to acquire one. (Click here for my article on cast iron cookware.) We use two skillets instead of a griddle, which works very nicely. I choose not to fold the blueberries into the batter, but to drop them onto the batter once it is in the pan. The primary reasons for this: I prefer the blueberries whole, every pancake has the same number of blueberries, and if the blueberries are frozen, the batter doesn't turn blue. Do not rush or be impatient with cooking pancakes. Knowing when they are done takes patience and practice. Watch the maple syrup carefully during warming, if it boils—what a mess! Bacon is almost always cooked in the oven, freeing the stovetop for pancakes. (Click here for the link to the recipe for Oven Bacon.)

Blueberry Pancakes

1-1/4 c. low fat buttermilk

1 egg

2 Tbsp. canola oil

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

1-1/4 c. flour

1 tsp. sugar

1 tsp. baking powder

½ tsp. baking soda

½ tsp. salt

1 quart fresh or frozen blueberries (do not thaw frozen blueberries)

Additional canola oil

Pure Vermont Maple Syrup

Unsalted butter

Measure buttermilk in a two cup measuring cup. Add the egg, canola oil, and vanilla. With a hand beater or fork mix just until blended. In a medium sized bowl measure dry ingredients. Stir to blend. Pour the buttermilk mixture in and mix with an egg beater or fork just until combined. Do not over mix. The batter will be thick and slightly lumpy.

Preheat oven to 170 degrees (warming temperature). Select a large oven-proof plate or platter and place in the oven.

Lightly moisten a paper towel with canola oil and wipe the cast iron skillet or griddle. Place on a medium burner over medium heat. Skillet is ready when a few drops of water “skip” when dropped onto its surface. Reduce heat slightly. With a 1/3 c. solid measure, pour batter onto the skillet. Drop about 12 blueberries over the surface of the pancake. When the surface is covered with bubbles, flip the pancake.

The pancake is done when the reverse side is browned and the pancake is firm in the middle when lightly touched. Using a spatula place the pancake on the platter in the warm oven. If necessary wipe the skillet with a little more canola oil and repeat with the remaining batter.

While the pancakes are cooking pour some pure Vermont maple syrup into a microwave safe pitcher, and set aside. Place the unsalted butter on a dish with a butter knife, and set aside to soften. Just before serving the pancakes, warm the maple syrup for approximately one minute in the microwave. Do not boil the syrup.

Makes approximately 8 4 inch pancakes. Serving size: 3 pancakes.

When Winter Hits Its Stride

2011-01-19T13:05:00.000-08:00

When winter hits its stride the crock pot becomes a fixture on the kitchen counter. Although it is used frequently, I never remember to write down or photograph what goes in or how it comes out. Unlike many other meals, crock pot preparations come together spontaneously. The ingredients are usually whatever is in the fridge. I have no idea what prompted me the other day, when I made this stew, to write down the ingredients and photograph the process. This is a wonderfully flavorful dish and suitable for company. Bon Appetite!

Notes for this recipe: It is not necessary to use a high quality burgundy for this dish. If you like a thicker stew: about 30 minutes before cooking time ends, mix 3 Tbsp. flour with ¼ c. water or beef stock, add to stew and stir to mix. Cover and finish cooking. Serve with a hearty bread or Corn Meal Biscuits.

Burgundy Stew

1 lb. good quality beef, trimmed and cut into 1” pieces

6 medium carrots, peeled and sliced

2 stalks celery (preferably with leaves), sliced

2 onions, peeled and sliced

1 qt. canned tomatoes with liquid (or 1 14 oz. can)

8 mushrooms, cleaned and sliced

1 c. burgundy

1-1/2 tsp. kosher salt

1 tsp. dried mustard

1 Tbsp. finely chopped basil

1 large bay leaf

2 Tbsp. finely chopped flat leaf parsley

¼ tsp. freshly ground white pepper

Place all the ingredients in a slow cooker. Mix with a rubber spatula to combine. Cover and cook on low for 8 to 10 hours or on high for 4 to 5 until vegetables and beef are tender. Adjust seasoning to taste and serve.

Oven Bacon!

2011-01-04T19:28:00.000-08:00

We are a bacon eating family. Special breakfasts require bacon, as do Fried Egg Sandwiches, BLTs, and so many other culinary delights. Learning how to “fry” bacon in the oven was a revelation to me. It solved so many problems, chief among them too few burners, so much to cook!

Over the holiday season we were celebrating with our friends the Flannigans. Their daughter Jannie and Bella have been fast friends since third grade. Their friendship was cemented by several memorable bonding experiences while playing on the same softball team. To go with the delicious Onion Soup made by her mother, Jannie had made several quiches, including a Quiche Lorraine sans bacon. Jannie declared that she was tired of being splattered by bacon fat and had sworn off cooking bacon. Bella and I looked at each other and said, “Oven bacon!” Bacon oven instructions were given with a promise to post the instructions soon. So, Jannie, as promised, here are the instructions for cooking bacon without being splattered.

Notes for this recipe: The bacon can cook very quickly at the end of the cooking time, to prevent burning check it more frequently. As cooked bacon is removed to drain, additional slices can be added to the broiler pan, check as needed. Cooked bacon can be kept in a warm oven (170) until serving time.

Oven Bacon

Bacon—thin or thick cut.

For thin cut bacon preheat oven to 425. For thick cut bacon preheat oven to 450.

Arrange the slices in the bottom of a broiler pan. Do not overlap the slices. Place the bacon in the preheated oven.

Using long-handled tongs, turn bacon every five minutes until bacon is browned and crisp. Remove slices as they are ready and drain on a paper towel lined plate.

Loosing Oneself

2010-12-18T15:39:00.000-08:00

My neighbor Elspeth is loosing herself. This is my euphamism for someone experiencing memory loss. It is the harsh reality many of us will face in years to come, but my neighbor is facing it now. Elspeth knows her memory is faulty and that it may eventually fail her completely. For now, with the help of her husband Guy, Elspeth is coping as best she can.

Elspeth is a wonderful cook, but as her memory issues increase cooking has become more and more difficult. For the past few years Elspeth and I have baked together. Most of the time we bake cookies. When we are finished Elspeth happily carries home her portion of our "loot" in a brown paper bag to share with Guy. Sometimes we are more ambitious.

As a young married woman and the mother of two small children, Elspeth used to make Parker House Rolls to earn house money. Several times per week Elspeth would rise early and begin her rolls. When the rolls were finished, she would bring them down street to one of the local markets where they were sold on consignment. This past fall, as we have done for several years now, Elspeth and I made Parker House Rolls. Elspeth learned how to make Parker House Rolls from her aunt with whom she was very close.

I pull down my mother’s old-fashioned bread bucket, and Elspeth and I measure in the ingredients and crank the handle mixing the dough to a perfect elasticity. We cover the bucket with a towel and let the dough rise. When it has doubled Elspeth punches the dough down, and we wait through the second rising. While the dough is rising, Elspeth and I bake cookies.

When the dough has doubled again we turn it onto a lightly floured cutting board and Elspeth begins to knead. Although her memory is faulty, Elspeth’s hands remember what has to be done. Her fingers and the heels of her hands work the dough with skill and practiced ease. As she works Elspeth tells stories—long walks as a young child every Sunday with her father and siblings, her mother’s final illness, learning how to make Parker House Rolls from her Aunt Rachel, and so many others. We continue to work rolling out the dough and shaping the rolls preparing them for their final rising. Elspeth continues to tell stories sometimes repeating herself. We work on and when the rolls are finally baked and cooled we package them up, and Elspeth heads home with her share of our booty. We have passed another enjoyable day, and I feel blessed and my life enriched.

Elspeth has been unable to find her Parker House Roll recipe for a while now. This recipe comes from an older Betty Crocker Cookbook.

Notes for this recipe: Manual method: Do not heat the water any hotter than 110 degrees, as it will kill the yeast. Machine Method: It is not necessary to dissolve the yeast. For the best results, use instant yeast—it is less heat sensitive. The butter must still be melted in the milk. Rising: If the kitchen is cold, fill a pan with boiling water, place a cooling rack across the pan, set the bowl on top, and cover completely with a towel. Freezing: These rolls freeze very well. To freeze, cool the rolls completely, place in a zip lock bag and freeze for up to one month.

Parker House Rolls

¼ c. warm water

1 pkg. or 2-1/4 teaspoons active dry yeast or instant yeast

¾ c. lukewarm milk

¼ c. sugar

1 tsp. salt

1 egg

3/4 c. unsalted butter, cut up

3-1/2 to 3-3/4 c. bread flour

Additional unsalted butter

Manual Method:

Lightly grease a large bowl with unsalted butter and set aside

Pour the milk into a small saucepan, add the cut up butter, and heat until the butter has melted fine bubbles appear around the edges. Cool to lukewarm.

In a large mixing bowl dissolve the yeast in the warm water. Add the cooled milk, sugar and egg. Mix to combine. Add half the flour and mix with a wooden spoon to combine. Add enough remaining flour to handle easily; mix with your hands.

Turn onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic (5 to 10 minutes). Knead in more flour if necessary. Place in the greased bowl and turn to coat. Cover with a towel and put in a warm spot and let rise until double, about 1-1/2 hours. Punch down, let rise again until almost double, about 30 minutes.

Punch down, place the dough on a flat surface, cover with a towel and let rest for 15 minutes.

To shape the rolls:

Lightly grease a baking sheet with butter and set aside. Roll the dough to ¼ inch thickness. Cut into circles with a 3 inch round biscuit or cookie cutter. Roll the circles flat if necessary.

Make a crease across each circle and place a pat of butter on what will become the bottom half of the circle. Fold the top half so it slightly overlaps. Place 1 inch apart on the greased baking sheet, cover with a towel and let rise until double, about 20 minutes. Preheat oven to 375. Bake rolls 10 to 12 minutes or until lightly golden brown. Remove to a cooling rack or serve immediately. Makes about 1-1/2 dozen rolls.

Machine Method:

Measure all ingredients into the pan of a bread machine. Set to “dough” setting. When the cycle is complete, go to the instructions for a second rising above and proceed.

Mom's World Famous Garlic Bread

2010-11-09T19:15:00.000-08:00

(Photo by Bella)

A few weekends ago Bella was home for our annual Harvest Celebration. She brought along Almira whose company we haven’t enjoyed for quite some time. Almira hails from a little town in Alaska and is back on the East coast studying for her master’s degree.

The evening before the celebration we sat around the table enjoying Marinara and the loaf of my mother’s garlic bread I’d prepared go with it. Almira said, “You know your garlic bread is famous in my home town.” Bella followed up, “It sure is! It was a huge hit at the spaghetti supper at Almira’s church.” Almira chortled, “Yeah, it never made it out of the kitchen.” I looked at Almira quizzically and she explained further, “The kitchen helpers liked your garlic bread so much that they ate all of it before it could make it to the dining room. Yup, your garlic bread was a huge hit!” When I told Bella and Almira that I planned on blogging my garlic bread, they chimed together, “Oh, great!” Bella said, “Almira, you’ll be able to send the link to everyone in your home town.” Almira nodded and smiled and helped herself to another slice of garlic bread.

Bella related another story about her study-abroad time in Italy. One night the students were planning a potluck supper. Everyone was yelling out what they would bring. Before Bella could chime in, the young man organizing the event turned to her and said, “And you can bring the Garlic Bread.” Bella said, "Yeah, Amma's garlic bread is world famous!"

My mother’s prowess in the kitchen was admired by many, and her skill as a caterer was frequently put to use at our church. At least once a year she produced a spaghetti supper as a church fundraiser. These were popular events and required massive amounts of sauce, pasta and...garlic bread. My mother’s garlic bread was famous. I sincerely believe that many people attended the spaghetti suppers just for a slice of her delicious garlic bread.

Notes for this recipe: The bread: Good quality bread is not required. The standard American-style Italian bread in the white paper wrapper will do quite nicely for this recipe.

Mom’s World Famous Garlic Bread

3/4 c. unsalted butter

¼ c. olive oil

6 cloves garlic minced

1 loaf unsliced Italian bread

1 Tbsp. finely chopped basil (optional)

Aluminum foil

Select a medium-sized saucepan with a wide top. Put the butter, olive oil and garlic into it and set on the stove. Turn the burner to medium low and heat gently until the butter is melted. Stir to combine and turn the burner off. Allow to meld for about one hour.

While the butter and garlic are melding, cut two large sheets of aluminum foil and lay them one on top of the other. Fold the edges together once and then twice. Open the two pieces being careful not to pull the fold apart. Smooth them flat.

Place the loaf of bread on a cutting board with the aluminum foil next to it. Cut the bread into 1-inch pieces. As it is cut, place each piece on the aluminum foil, reconstructing the loaf.

If necessary, reheat butter lightly to remelt it, if using, stir in the basil. Dip one side of each slice of bread into the butter replacing it on the aluminum foil reforming the loaf. If there is any butter left, dip the other side of as many slices as possible.

When the butter is gone, use a brush and brush a little bit of garlic onto one side of each slice.

Pull the aluminum foil up around the bread, and fold the ends together to secure them. Tuck up the ends to make a tidy packet around the bread.

Preheat oven to 350 and bake bread for approximately 45 minutes or until the bread is heated through and the crust is crisp. Line a basket with a towel and set aside. When the bread is ready, cut open the foil and place the slices in the prepared basket. Bring the towel up to help keep the bread warm. Serve immediately.

Busted!

2010-10-07T17:44:00.000-07:00

When I asked DH what it was about the new Baked Apples he liked so much his reply was, “Not a lot of sugar. Your earlier Baked Apples had too much sugar.” That seems to be the focus these days—less sugar. Why? Now that I’ve been busted by The Basil Queen (A Cookie for Bobbie Sue), I have to fess up—I can’t eat sugar. A specialty baker who can’t eat sugar? That would be me!

The goal for the last few years has been to rework recipes reducing or eliminating sugar. It’s been an interesting journey, and one that had to include baked apples. It’s taken a time or two to figure out how to replace sugar and retain the flavor of this dish, but it was worth the tinkering. The reduction in sugar allows the flavor of the apples to really come through, with the apple cider adding natural sugars and the brown sugar further enhancing the taste bud experience and giving the dessert additional depth. The side benefit, a wonderfully delicious sauce to spoon over the Baked Apples when they are served. Oh, yum! (Bake extras it saves time!)

Notes for this recipe: Apples: I like to cook with Empires, which are a wonderfully crisp and flavorful apple. They are also a decent keeper. But, any crisp, firm apple can be used. Do not substitute apple juice for the apple cider—the flavor of the dish will suffer. Up to half of the apple cider can be replaced with water, but the sauce will not be as thick or as flavorful. Coring apples: There's a handy gadget I've had for years--a hollow tube with a wooden plunger--I use to core apples. Works perfectly and blissfully low-tech! You can see it pictured below in the photo to the right of the ingredients list. Doing an on-line search will turn up similar gadgets with the wood now replaced by plastic.

Baked Apples

6 fairly large apples

Raisins

Brown sugar

Unsalted butter

Cinnamon

Nutmeg

Apple Cider

Select a non-reactive baking pan large enough to comfortably hold the apples without them touching and set it aside. Preheat oven to 350.

Wash and core the apples. Cut a strip of peel from around the middle of each apple and set inside the selected pan. Gently pack the core cavities with raisins to about ¼ inch from the top of the apple. Press brown sugar on top of the raisins so that it is flush with the top of the apple. Cut a slice of butter equal to approx. 1 tsp. and set on top of brown sugar. Give each apple a sprinkle of cinnamon and then a grate of fresh nutmeg.

Pour apple cider into the pan until it is halfway up the cut away strip. Put the apples into the oven and bake for 60 minutes or until tender. Transfer pan to wire rack and cool slightly. Serve warm or cold.

To serve: Select some large dessert bowls and have them handy. Select a serving spoon with a bowl large enough to scoop up an entire apple. Use the spoon to move the apples into the selected dessert bowls. Divide the sauce among the dishes and serve. In the unlikely event of leftovers, store any remaining apples in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

The Blue and White Box

2010-09-21T17:58:00.000-07:00

The town next to the one in which I grew up had a bakery that produced superlative cookies and breads. Their blue and white box on the counter always meant a special treat, especially if it contained Hermits.

Years after I had left the town of my childhood, these Hermits lived large in my memory. With the bakery long out of business it was impossible to sample these particular Hermits again. All others paled in comparison. Most failed and wound up in the trash bin. All recipes were found lacking. And resignation took hold. The disappointment was palpable.

One day while sitting in a waiting room flipping through some magazines a recipe captured my eye. Hmmmmm, now that looked intriguing. For the first time in years I felt hope that I might actually once again bite into the Hermit of my childhood. I copied the recipe out and made it within a day or two. It did not disappoint.

Although there is no blue and white box to signal a particular treat, these cookies have become a family favorite. And, disappear almost as quickly as those from the blue and white box.

A historical note: Hermits are a very old cookie and are said to have originated on Cape Cod. An excellent keeper these cookies often went to sea stored in tins and packed into sea trunks.

Note: Rotating cookie sheets--for me this means moving the cookie sheets--the sheet on the top rack is moved to the bottom rack and the sheet on the bottom rack is moved to the top rack. The sheets are also turned 160 degrees in this process (a half turn--front to back or back to front). This allows for more even baking.

Hermits

2 c. flour

1 tsp. cinnamon

½ tsp. baking powder

½ tsp. baking soda

½ tsp. ginger

¼ tsp. nutmeg

¼ tsp. salt

1/8 tsp. cloves

1 c. brown sugar

½ c. unsalted butter, softened

1/3 c. molasses

1 egg

1 c. raisins

1 c. pecans coarsely chopped and toasted

Preheat oven to 350. Grease and flour two cookie sheets.

Measure dry ingredients into a bowl and stir to combine.

In another bowl beat sugar and butter until light and fluffy. Beat in molasses until well combined. Beat in egg. On low add flour and mix just until combined. Stir in raisins and pecans.

Divide dough into quarters.

With lightly floured hands, shape each quarter into a 12” x 1-1/2” log. On each sheet place 2 logs leaving 3 inches in between.

Bake 10 to 15 minutes or until logs flatten and edges are firm. Rotate sheets halfway between baking time. Cool 15 minutes on baking sheets. Place logs one at a time on cutting board and cut into cookies. Transfer slices to wire racks to cool completely.

Spread That on Your Cracker and Eat It!

2010-09-16T18:11:00.000-07:00

Cannellini beans are an Italian white bean and are often referred to as “white kidney beans.” They retain their shape very well when cooked, and are firm with a wonderfully smooth texture and a slightly nutty flavor. Cannellini can be found in cans already processed or you may prepare them yourself. (Click for my instructions for preparing beans.) They double in size—1 cup of dry beans will result in approximately 2-1/2 cups of cooked beans.

The delicate flavor of the beans combined with the refreshing flavor of the dill makes this an especially tasty spread. It goes well with crackers and bread. For the best flavor make a day in advance and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Allow the spread to sit at room temperature 20 minutes before serving. This spread was a huge hit, and there's been lots of pestering for the recipe by everyone who enjoyed it. Finally, you may now spread this on your cracker and eat it!

Dilled Cannellini Bean Spread

2 cans cannellini beans, rinsed & drained

½ of a red pepper, chopped

3 Tbsp. chopped dill

1 Tbsp. chopped Italian parsley

1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

1 clove garlic crushed & chopped

Kosher salt

White pepper (freshly ground)

Olive oil

Crackers

Fit a food processor with it’s chopping blade. In the work bowl place the cannellini beans through garlic. Using the pulse option, process just until ingredients are combined. With the machine running pour only enough olive oil through the feed tube to make the mixture smooth, but still thick and spreadable. Remove lid and add salt and pepper to taste, and more dill, if desired. Mix to combine. Allow to sit at room temperature for an hour before serving. Can be made the day ahead and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Serve with crackers.

Coming Full Circle

2010-09-06T15:00:00.000-07:00

Madame was one of those people for whom the beauty and elegance of life was essential. There were no coffee mugs in Madame’s home. She considered them to be ugly and refused to succumb to their convenience. “Sweetie,” Madame would say in her still heavily French accented English, “They just have no elegance!” Madame worked to create the life of beauty and elegance she valued, and did her best with everything and expected the same of those who surrounded her.

On her recent visit home I told Bella that I had finally written down the measurements and ingredients for Madame’s vinaigrette, but was struggling with the post. Bella suggested that I talk about how a visit to Madame required the best. Bella said, “You know, my best dress, my best shoes, and the socks with the lace ruffles. I had to wear a hat and gloves and carry my best purse.” And, most importantly, Bella remembers needing to be on her best behavior. (Some visits were quite short!) Then Bella said, “And I couldn’t chew gum. Remember the time we were standing on the steps and you looked down and I was chewing gum? You had already rung the bell and you looked at me and said, “Get rid of that gum! And, whatever you do don’t swallow it! It’ll be in your stomach for seven years!” So, I spit the gum into my purse just as Madame opened the door!”

For many years I have considered Madame’s vinaigrette to be the essence of culinary artistic simplicity. Every time it is served our guests rave about its subtle flavor and elegance. What finally spurred me to record the recipe was my nephew Wort. On his recent visit we had served this dressing with salad one night for dinner. Wort looked at me and said, “Auntie, this is the best salad dressing I’ve ever had.” From Wort, high praise in deed! For that brief and shining moment the beauty and elegance to which Madame aspired and tried to instill in those she knew blazed brightly. I felt like we had come full circle with Madame for whom we always did our best.

Notes for this recipe: I have adapted the recipe slightly. Madame always used vegetable oil, white wine tarragon vinegar, and jarred mayonnaise. She would never have added mustard of any kind! I use only homemade mayonnaise, and for the best results suggest that you do, too—click for my mayonnaise recipe. Substitutions for the Dijon mustard are not encouraged--use Dijon or omit this ingredient. The amount can also be reduced.

Madame’s Vinaigrette

1/3 c. white wine vinegar

1 c. olive oil

1 Tbsp. mayonnaise

1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

Kosher salt

Black pepper, freshly ground

Sprig fresh tarragon

Select a 2 c. glass jar with a tight lid. Into it measure the vinegar and olive oil. Add the mayonnaise and mustard. Put the lid on the jar and shake. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the sprig of fresh tarragon. Store in the refrigerator or use immediately. Store any unused dressing in the refrigerator.

Ritual of Summer

2010-08-23T14:58:00.000-07:00

Blueberry picking has been one of the rituals of summer since childhood. Every summer we would travel to the family farm in New Hampshire. On any farm summer time is filled with work from dawn to dusk. Many of our days were spent bringing in the hay, but in between haying and the regular barn chores there were often more pleasant tasks to be attended to. On sunny days during blueberry season my grandmother would send my aunts to pick wild blueberries. I have pleasant memories of picking wild blueberries on rocky mountain outcroppings with my mother and her sisters.

At home we picked blueberries at Oscar & Lolita’s. Mom would always make a pie for dinner and several more for the freezer. When my folks moved to Vermont Oscar gave them fifteen blueberry bushes. Dad planted them in the backyard where they thrived. Mom froze quarts of blueberries and made dozens of jars of jam. When my parent’s freezer was full the neighbors were invited to pick. As my folks aged and we needed additional help with their various gardens, the neighbors pitched in. When my folks passed on, DH and I transplanted some shoots from their blueberry bushes to our farm. But, what to do for blueberries while we waited for the shoots mature?

One night over a glass of wine with our friends CC and Ned, DH & I mentioned our blueberry dilemma. CC and Ned looked at each other and said, “We have blueberry bushes. Come and pick all you want!” For the past few years that is exactly what we’ve done. In exchange for their generosity, we give CC and Ned a case of jam and a blueberry dessert or two during the season.

One of the blueberry desserts I like to make is Carole’s Fresh Blueberry Tart. This recipe comes from my friend Carole, another blueberry picker. The dessert looks and tastes fabulous, but isn’t complicated or difficult to make. This year my cousin Cole was visiting and helped make the Tart for CC and Ned. CC asked if I could teach her to make the Tart. So, here’s Carole’s Fresh Blueberry Tart via Cole and CC’s cooking lessons. Enjoy!

Notes for this recipe: The tart crust is blind baked—a technique used to bake empty crusts, which are later filled. There are several ways to blind bake a crust, the one used in this recipe is the technique I prefer and requires parchment paper and dried beans. The beans may be saved and reused. The lemon zest must be very finely grated--a micro-grater produces the best results. Use only fresh lemon juice and unsalted butter. If you don’t have a tart pan, a deep dish pie plate is an adequate substitute.

Carole's Fresh Blueberry Tart

CRUST:

l-l/4 cups flour

3 Tbsp. confectioner's sugar

l/4 tsp. salt

10 Tbsp. chilled unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons

Parchment paper

Dried beans or rice

FILLING:

3/4 c. sugar

3 Tbsp. cornstarch

Pinch of salt

2 Tbsp. cold water

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1 Tbsp. unsalted butter

2 tsp. grated lemon peel

6 cups fresh blueberries

For Crust: Preheat oven to 425. Select 10” false-bottomed tart pan or a 9” deep false-bottomed tart pan.

Measure the flour, powdered sugar and salt into the work bowl of a food processor. Blend for 5 seconds.

Add butter, and pulse until it is cut in. Then blend until the dough forms a ball.

Gather the dough and form into a palm-sized disc. Place the disc of dough into the bottom of the tart pan.

Gently push the dough evenly over the bottom, and into the corner of the tart pan.

Use your thumb to push the dough from the corner and up the side of the tart pan. If using a deep tart pan, the dough should go up the sides 1 inch.

Line the crust with a piece of parchment paper. Fill the paper with the beans or rice.

Place the tart pan in the oven and bake for 20 minutes or until the crust is set and lightly golden brown. Carefully remove parchment and beans and bake for another 5 minutes or until the crust is dry to the touch. Remove tart pan to a wire rack to cool completely.

For Filling: Whisk sugar, cornstarch, salt in medium saucepan to blend. Gradually add 2 TBSP cold water and lemon juice, whisking until smooth. Add butter and lemon peel. Add 2 cups berries and mash with potato masher. Cook over med. heat until mixture thickens and boils, stirring occasionally.

Remove from heat. Fold in remaining 4 cups of berries. Scrape the filling into cooled crust.

With a rubber spatula spread the filling to the edges and smooth. Refrigerate till cold, at least l hour. Can be prepared l day ahead. Cover loosely with foil, refrigerate.

To remove the tart from the pan for serving: Select a flat serving plate or platter and have it close to your work surface. Hold the pan in one hand and with your other gently push up on the false bottom. When you feel the tart give way, continue gently pushing up allowing the rim of the pan to fall down around your arm. Place the tart on your work surface. Slip a long thin angled spatula between the false bottom and the crust. Gently slide the spatula around to separate the crust from the bottom. Very gently slide the tart onto the selected serving plate or platter. Allow the tart to sit at room temperature for about an hour before serving.

Something Blue

2010-08-16T19:17:00.000-07:00

I could go into some heady discussion about the history of blueberries, how they are native to North American and they have been a part of the culinary landscape here for centuries. That would only detract from the purpose of this article, which is to rave about this deliciously spectacular orb and the magnificent Blueberry Buckle. Many years ago while reading a science fiction novel’s description of some blue food the characters were eating I wondered what it would be like to eat something blue. Then it hit me! We have the blueberry! How could I have forgotten?! (Obviously, not one of my finer moments.)

Over the years I’ve made a myriad of blueberry baked goods. When I was baking professionally, the list was quite extensive, now I make what we like, which tends to be the tried and true old-fashioned favorites. One of these is Blueberry Buckle. This deliciously moist buttery cake dense with blueberries hails back to Colonial days. The blueberry part of the name is obvious. The buckle part of the name refers to the top of the cake, which “buckles” or “warps” during baking. This recipe need not be limited to blueberries—diced peaches, sliced strawberries, raspberries, halved cherries all work well, too.

Blueberry Buckle

Topping:

1/3 c. brown sugar

1/3 c. flour

1 tsp. cinnamon

4 oz. unsalted butter, softened

Cake:

2 c. flour

2 tsp. baking powder

½ tsp. salt

¾ c. brown sugar

1 tsp. vanilla

½ c. milk

4 oz. unsalted butter, softened

2 c. fresh blueberries

Preheat oven to 350. Grease a round 9” baking pan. Line bottom only with parchment paper. Grease the parchment paper and dust the entire pan with flour, tap out excess flour.

Measure the topping ingredients into a small bowl. Using your fingers, blend the mixture completely. Set aside. Measure the flour, baking powder and salt into a bowl. Stir to combine and set aside. Combine the milk and the vanilla and set aside.

In a large mixing bowl beat the brown sugar and butter until creamed. Add the flour and milk alternately, beginning and ending with the flour. Mix only until blended. Fold in the blueberries. Scrape into the
prepared pan.

Sprinkle on the topping. Bake for 45 minutes or until done. The edges should be browned and slightly pulling away from the pan. Remove Buckle to a wire rack. Cool for 10 minutes. Run a knife around the pan. Place a second wire wrack over the top of the cake. Turn the cake upside down onto the second rack. Remove the pan, peel off the parchment from the Buckle’s bottom. Place a cooling rack over the bottom of the Buckle and gently flip it top side up. Cool completely or serve warm.

Just In Time

2010-08-02T20:10:00.000-07:00

DH has a poster sent to him by his Aunt Vi of a man in a mask standing on a neighbor’s porch with a "Saturday night special" and an armful of zucchini. The caption reads, “You may be a red neck if you’ve ever forced your neighbors to take your unwanted zucchini.” That pretty much sums up week three of the zucchini harvest! Right now our neighbors are happy to see us. In a week’s time they will be locking their doors and cowering in the corner when they see us coming. And you think I’m joking!

There are several ways we put zucchini by for the winter months. It is grated and put into zip lock bags and frozen to be used in soups, stews, and casseroles. Zucchini Relish is a favorite and 24 pints of that have been put by. And then there is Zucchini Bread which is baked into small loaves and frozen. For years I used my mother’s zucchini bread recipe. It is quite a well known recipe, but to our taste it was too sweet, had too much cinnamon and was far too oily. So, I began tampering. After two years and I don’t know how many attempts this morning it happened—the recipe is finished! And just in time, too!

Notes for this recipe: The zucchini can be grated in a food processor using the grating blade. It can also be grated by hand. The recipe makes 1 9 x5 inch loaf, 3 3x5 inch loaves or 2 4x6 inch loaves. This recipe freezes extremely well. Wrap the loaves in plastic wrap, then in aluminum foil, label and freeze. This bread also makes a lovely dessert served with fruit and a cup of tea or coffee. It is not necessary to use an electric mixer for this recipe--I generally use a whisk and a spatula. Quick, simple, and low tech with the same delicious results!

Just In Time Zucchini Bread

3 eggs

1 c. brown sugar

1-1/4 c. canola oil

1 tbsp. vanilla

2 c. flour

1 c. whole wheat flour

2 tsp. baking soda

1/4 tsp baking powder

½ tsp. cinnamon, optional

1 tsp. salt

2 c. grated zucchini

1 c. chopped nuts (optional)

Preheat oven to 350. Grease a 9x5 inch loaf pan (or 2 to 3 smaller pans) and set aside.

Grate the zucchini and set aside. Measure dry ingredients into a bowl, stir to combine and set aside.

In a large bowl beat together brown sugar and oil. Beat eggs until creamy, add to sugar and oil and beat until well combined. Add vanilla and stir to mix.

Add dry ingredients and mix on low until combined. Stir in grated zucchini and chopped nuts (if using). Pour into prepared pan(s). Bake for 1 hour or until done. Cool in pans for 10 minutes. Remove loaf from the pan and cool completely on wire rack.

Born on the 4th of July

2010-07-20T18:58:00.000-07:00

As the guest list for the 4^th of July Ultimate Rib Extravaganza was falling into place, it became clear—appetizers were a must. I dipped into my “Recipes for a Hoard” file and pulled out the tried and true Black Bean Salsa. Many permutations of this recipe have been served at various events, and the 4^th of July Ultimate Rib Extravaganza wasn’t going to be the exception. Celebrating the 4th was going to be a weekend long event, with houseguests, dinner guests, and then the big event on the 4^th. Planning ahead was going to be essential if I was going to be prepared and not a frantic mess.

Saturday morning found us at the local Farmer’s Market. DH carved a straight line to his cousin’s stand, Gizmo’s Pickled Plus and settled in. The rest of us scattered taking in the ambiance and variety of the Market. A tap on my shoulder found Bella at my elbow with our good friend Jo in tow, a truly delightful surprise, which turned into two more for dinner. It had been far too long since we had enjoyed Jo and Angel’s company; they would be a welcome addition to our al fresco dinner party.

Several hours later we arrived home laden with our purchases, and attempted to cram them into an already burgeoning refrigerator. We took a short break and began the day’s real work—preparing food.

In addition to preparing for the 4^th of July Ultimate Rib Extravaganza there were now additional preparations to make for dinner. Another pound of hamburg needed thawing, and I wondered if someone needed to go out for more sweet corn. I lingered on that for about two seconds before I was distracted and off in another direction. The kitchen was bustle of activity. My nephew Wort was making ice cream and sorbet, Adele was doing the ribs, I was making pies and lists, and Bella and Christy were in the dining room coloring and accusing each other of monopolizing crayons in between doing the dishes.

Around 5 o’clock everyone was starving, and dinner was still a ways off. Out came the ingredients for Black Bean Salsa. I whipped together this and some Dilled White Bean Spread, arranged everything in a cloth-lined basket and brought it to the porch. Wort opened a growler of beer and everyone settled in for a good gnosh. It was all delicious, but what the blazing sun would be served for appetizers tomorrow?!

The next morning I pulled the remnants of the Black Bean Salsa from the fridge--not much left. It was time to forage. There were a couple ears of corn-on-the-cob left from the previous night’s dinner. There was still a tomato or two, a variety of peppers, lots of fresh cilantro, a ripe avocado, limes, and a can of black beans-- a veritable treasure trove. What I didn’t have were chips. Bella and Wort made a supply run and we were good to go. So, here it is--Black Bean & Corn Salsa, born on the 4^th of July.

Notes for this recipe: The Salsa will be best when made ahead of time giving the flavors time to develop and meld. More or less cilantro, garlic, and cumin can be added to suit your palate. The avocado can be omitted. The picture shows Black Bean & Corn Salsa from our Saturday night festivities. Click on "cooked corn" below for the link on this blog for cooking corn how to.

4th of July Black Bean and Corn Salsa

1 avocado peeled, pitted & diced

Zest & juice of 1 lime

2 15 oz. cans black beans, rinsed and drained

2 ears of cooked corn, kernels cut from the cob (or 1 c. frozen, thawed or 1 c. canned, drained)

½ red pepper, seeded & diced

½ yellow pepper, seeded & diced

¼ green pepper, seeded & diced

1 tomato, sliced & diced

2 Tbsp. green onion tops, minced

1 small onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, crushed and minced

1/3 c. chopped cilantro

2 tsp. cumin

Kosher salt

White & Blue corn chips

Put the diced avocado in a small bowl. Pour the lime juice over and gently stir with a rubber spatula. Add the zest. Set aside.

In a larger bowl combine the remaining ingredients. Stir to combine. Add the avocado & lime juice mixture. Stir gently to combine. Season with salt to taste. Scrape into a serving bowl and set aside for an hour. Taste and adjust seasoning as necessary.

Line a basket with a towel. Set the serving bowl in the basket and surround with chips and serve.

Sacred Events

2010-07-11T18:29:00.000-07:00

Every year for at least twenty years we’ve made a pilgrimage. Less than a handful of times have we missed this most sacred of events—strawberry picking. Sacrilege? Heresy? Hardly! One could worship worse things than the beautiful and succulent strawberry. And worship it I do!

This year DH and I were able to make the pilgrimage together. It was a glorious mid-June Vermont day—cloudless blue sky with a brilliant sun. We arrived at Norris Berry Farm mid-morning, and checked in. We blocked up, donned our sun hats, grabbed our flats (the large rectangular cartons to hold the picked strawberries), and headed to our designated patch where we each selected a row and got busy.

We toiled for hours in the hot sun picking our rows while others came and went. The person who most captured our attention was the young woman carrying a latte in one hand and a quart basket in the other. Miss Latte wore a mini-shirt and a pair of designer sandals. As DH and I scooted along on our butts this young woman hopped from row to row looking for the biggest and most beautiful berries. She was what we call a top grazer. Miss Latte ignored strawberry picking etiquette--you select a row and pick it, placing the flag for that row where you stop. No silly rules or etiquette for Miss Latte! DH and I chuckled and exchanged a knowing look. Go ahead, Miss Latte, pick the biggest, most perfect berries! We are quite content with the smaller ones. As strawberry devotees, we know that the smaller berries pack the most flavor. Miss Latte was not the only picker obsessed with finding the largest berries, which makes me ask, "What is the obsession with big berries?!"

The answer must be Clamshell strawberries, those tasteless monstrosities available for purchase year round in supermarkets. I’ve concluded that this product appeals to our cultural training that bigger must be better, even if it tastes terrible. If shoppers knew how these crops were grown and the environmental impact of the agricultural methods used, would it make a difference in their purchasing habits? Clamshells are cultivated using a form of modern commercial production called the “plasticulture” system. Which means lots of plastic is used.

The plants are covered with plastic to prevent weeds from growing and pests from invading. The plants are “fumigated,” which is a less frightening way of referring to the pesticides used to kill pests and weeds. Talk about toxic! This is not a product I purchase, period. We eat strawberries when they are in season and pick or purchase them from a local grower. This year we picked four flats of these tasty morsels, which were turned into jam or frozen. Come January this little bit of summer will be most welcome.

One of our favorite summer desserts is Strawberry Shortcake. A tender, slightly sweet biscuit doused with strawberries and bathed in whipped cream. But here’s the burning question--"Why is Shortcake called shortcake?" I’ll give you a hint, it isn’t because the biscuits are short in stature! Shortcake’s name derives from the ratio of fat to flour and how this affects the length of the gluten strands. Gluten strands are “shortened” by increasing the ratio of fat to flour resulting in a much more tender product. Hence the name shortcake. By adding sugar, milk and baking powder the chemical reaction is complete creating a tender, moist biscuit.

Notes for this recipe: Our preference is for unsugared strawberries, but it can be added. A tablespoon or two would be sufficient. Although many shortcake biscuits call for eggs, this one does not. Why? I prefer them without. Whipping cream--don’t over whip or it will turn to butter, and confectioner’s sugar can be increased to 1 tablespoon if you prefer yours a little sweeter.

Strawberry Shortcake

1 qt. strawberries

Biscuits

Whipped Cream

Hull strawberries. In a separate bowl mash approximately 1/3 of the berries. Halve the remaining strawberries into a larger bowl. Add the mashed berries. With a rubber spatula, gently mix to combine. Set aside.

While the strawberries are resting, make the biscuits.

Biscuits

2 c. flour

4 Tbsp. brown sugar

3 tsp. baking power

1 tsp. salt

6 Tbsp. unsalted butter

1 c. milk

Preheat oven to 375. Lightly grease a cookie sheet with shortening or canola oil and set aside. Into a bowl measure the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Thoroughly cut in the butter with a pastry blender or two table knives. Add the milk. Stir with a fork to combine. Using two spoons drop the dough onto the prepared cookie sheet to make 8 biscuits.

Bake for 15 minutes or until biscuits are a light golden brown. Cool for 5 minutes and remove to wire rack to cool completely.

While the biscuits are cooling give the strawberries a gentle stir, and then make the whipped cream.

Whipped Cream

1/2 c. heavy cream

½ tsp. vanilla

½ Tbsp. confectioner’s sugar

In small bowl beat the whipped cream until it is thickened. Gently stir in the vanilla and confectioner’s sugar.

To assemble the Strawberry Shortcakes: Cut a biscuit in half horizontally. Place the lower half of the biscuit in a dessert-sized bowl. Fill a one cup solid measuring cup with strawberries. Pour them on top of the biscuit. Add a good dollop of whipped cream and cover with the top of the biscuit. Serve.

Adapt!

2010-06-28T14:30:00.000-07:00

Some food historians believe that the origin of what we now call hamburger stems from the Mongols, who if we believe what we are told, put low-grade cuts of meat under their saddles to tenderize it, and at the end of their long day ate it raw.

In the thirteenth century the Mongols, called Tartares by the Russians, invaded Moscow and brought their “ground” beef with them. The Russians adapted the dish and called it Steak Tartare, which has become quite the delicacy and can be found on the menu in very fine restaurants. The dish now includes an egg yolk, capers, mustard, grated onion, and seasonings. It has a spectacular presentation, and is usually served and mixed at table by the Maitre d’.

So, how do we get from Russia to Germany? Some food historians claim that in the 1600’s German sailors from the port of Hamburg began stopping in Russian ports where they were introduced to—you got it—Steak Tartare, which they brought back to their native city. The Hamburgians adapted the dish by shredding their poorer cuts of meat, adding some seasoning, cooking it, and changing the name to Hamburg Steak. When folks from Hamburg began immigrating to the United States, guess what they brought with them—you got it—Hamburg Steak. Here in the States, it has been adapted and shortened to just plain Hamburg, which has become synonymous with ground beef.

The Hamburg has been further adapted by yours truly. From frustration born from serving too many bad burgers, I began experimenting and came up with this recipe. It made sense that if binders could be added to ground beef to create meat loaf, why not burgers? Hence, Bobbie Sue’s Burgers. Tasty and moist even if I do so myself, but don’t rely on my word ask Bella—she’ll tell you straight. And, so will anyone else who’s had them.

Notes for this recipes: The bread will flavor the burger, so be sure to use one that will compliment the flavor you wish to achieve or at least be neutral. The home made bread I use would probably translate into 1-1/2 slices of commercial bread. Other herbs can be substituted for the thyme to suit your taste. (In summer I often use Summer Savory or Basil.) Adding additional liquid is not recommended as the burger becomes too wet. If you are grilling, preheat the grill for at least 10 minutes and spray the racks with a little olive oil to prevent sticking before putting on the burgers.

Bobbie Sue's Burgers

1/4 c. (approx.) milk

1 egg

1 thick slice whole grain bread

1 lb. lean ground beef

1 tsp. (heaping) horseradish

1 tsp. (heaping) Dijon or coarse mustard

1 tsp. thyme, crushed or 1 Tbsp fresh time

Salt

Pepper

In a bowl mix together the milk and egg. Tear bread into this mixture and allow to set until bread in completely softened. About 10 minutes. With your hands mix the bread and egg to finish breaking down the bread.

Add the ground beef, horseradish, mustard, thyme and salt and pepper to taste. Mix thoroughly. With a ½ solid cup measure shape into patties and broil or grill to desired doneness.

30 Minutes or Less

2010-06-27T20:38:00.000-07:00

When warmer weather comes we move from the heavier comfort foods of winter to the lighter grilled foods of summer. Dinner is often grilled beef or poultry with a simple salad of mixed greens from our garden. Once the veggies start coming in these too are grilled and basted with a sauce laced with the fresh herbs DH clips from the garden.

This is one of our favorite grilled chicken dishes. The sauce is simple and takes about 3 minutes to prepare, and the chicken grills up in about 20. The grill preheats while you make the sauce, and the chicken grills while you throw together a salad. A delicious and nutritious dinner in 30 minutes or less.

Most recently this dish was grill and go! For Father's Day DH and I packed an impromptu picnic dinner and headed to the river. Food always tastes better when eaten al fresco!

Notes for this dish: Use tongs to turn the chicken. Forks make holes allowing the juices to escape. No forks! If using fresh rosemary, boost to 1 tsp.

Piquant Grilled Chicken

4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts

1 Tbsp. Olive oil

1 Tbsp. white wine

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce

1 tsp. Kosher salt

1 tsp. celery seed

½ tsp. rosemary, crushed

Light the grill and allow to preheat for at least 10 minutes. In the meantime, wash chicken breasts and set aside.

Measure all remaining ingredients into a small bowl. Stir with a whisk to combine.

Brush the one side of the chicken breasts with the sauce. Place the chicken breasts basted side down on the preheated grill. Brush the other side with the sauce. Close the lid and grill the breasts for 10 minutes. Brush a little more sauce onto the chicken breasts and turn them over with tongs. Brush the upper side with a little more sauce. Close the lid and cook for another 5 to 10 minutes. If after 10 minutes the breasts are not cooked, baste with more sauce and turn again cooking only until cooked through. Remove to a platter and serve.

A First Rate Debut

2010-06-21T19:17:00.000-07:00

Raisin Bread is right at the top of my quintessential comfort food list. In my younger days, the perfect breakfast or snack--heavily buttered Raisin Bread toast. Just the thought of it makes my mouth water. Both DH and Bella have an affinity for Raisin Bread, as well. Bella like hers with a sprinkle of cinnamon sugar on top of her butter. DH likes his any way he can get it.

For some months I’d been half-heartedly working on a Raisin Bread recipe. I’d make it, take notes, adjust, tweak, and on it went. A few weeks ago while preparing for my upcoming summer vacation, I decided to bring a loaf of Raisin Bread. (The area we vacation in has many attractions, but decent bread isn’t among them.) This was the perfect opportunity for the Raisin Bread to make its debut. After some thought, I decided one loaf would last the week. I was, after all, bringing several other loaves.

Saturday morning breakfast, out comes the Raisin Bread. Within moments of consuming her first piece, Bella was asking for the recipe. Everyone had a slice, and then another. I’m not sure exactly how many pieces of toast everyone had for breakfast, but Monday morning we were negotiating for crusts! That is what I call a first rate debut.

Hints for this recipe:

1. Flour--I use only King Arthur Flours, period. You don't have to, although I encourage you to. When it comes to bread, for the best results do use bread flour, it is specially formulated for bread and will produce a superior loaf.

2. Yeast: Instant yeast is specially formulated for bread machines. It is less heat sensitive and gives an excellent result. My instant yeast of choice: SAF Red Instant Yeast. It can be found in a 16 oz. bag at most Whole Foods stores and at King Arthur (click for link).

3. Manual rising tip: Place a rack over a 9x13 inch pan. Fill the pan with boiling water. Set the bowl or loaf pan containing the dough on the rack, cover with a towel.

Raisin Bread

2 c. white bread flour

1 c. whole wheat flour

1-1/4 c. water

4 Tbsp. olive oil

1 Tbsp. brown sugar

1 tsp. salt

2 tsp. instant yeast

1 c. raisins

Bread Machine Method:

Measure all ingredients into the work bowl of your bread machine. Place work bowl in the machine and set on regular bread cycle with a light crust.

Watch while bread is mixing, adding enough water, if necessary, to form a smooth and elastic dough. Close lid and allow cycle to complete. When the bread is baked, remove from work bowl to the counter to cool.

Manual Method: Lightly grease a bowl and set aside. In another large mixing bowl combine all ingredients. Mix with a wooden spoon until dough starts to pull away from the sides of the bowl. Lightly flour a smooth flat surface (a counter top or cutting board), and scrape the dough onto it. Knead the dough with your hands until it is a smooth and elastic, re-flouring the surface as necessary to prevent sticking—about 15 minutes. Place the dough in the greased bowl, and turn to coat. Cover with a towel and set in a warm place to rise. When dough has doubled in volume (it should be light and puffy and when poked leave an indentation), about 60 minutes, punch down and remove from bowl onto a lightly floured surface.

Grease a regular loaf (9x5) pan and set aside. Shape dough into a 9 inch log. Place in prepared pan. Cover with a towel and let rise until double in volume, about 60 minutes. Loaf should be nicely domed. Again, when poked is should leave an indentation that is slow to close. Preheat oven to 350. Bake loaf for about 30 minutes or until it is golden brown. To test, thump lightly on the bottom of the pan, it will sound hollow. Cool in pan for ten minutes. Then remove loaf to wire rack to cool completely.

Food Fest Finale

2010-06-06T19:14:00.000-07:00

There are some dishes that become favorites in every family. In ours, one of these dishes is Chicken Pineapple. For a while, Bella requested this dish on every special occasion. It is still a favorite family meal.

When my cousin Cole and I were doing menu planning during our recent stay, we needed another dinner dish. This one came to mind. It has fabulous flavor, can be prepped ahead of time, and takes about 20 minutes to finish. It also had some techniques I wanted to teach Cole, building on what we had already been working on, which meant that it fit nicely with the on-going cooking lesson theme of our visit. It also meant we were back to chicken! The ingredients for Chicken Pineapple were added to the grocery list for our Power Shop, and off we went. The dish was a huge hit, and a nice addition to Cole's repertoire. It was also the finale of our weekend food fest!

Several weeks ago, Cole left a message on the answering machine asking about Chicken Pineapple. She had checked the blog, but the recipe wasn’t there. Life had been zooming along and although I’d begun the post, had not been able to finish it. I was delighted Cole was making this dish again, and so soon, too! Now several more weeks have passed and finally!!! Here it is the incredible, edible Chicken Pineapple.

Chicken Pineapple

4 Tbsp. canola oil

2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts

1 2” piece of fresh ginger

1 fresh, ripe pineapple

3 large carrots, peeled

2 stalks celery

1 green pepper, seeded

1 Tbsp. cornstarch

¼ c. water

Kosher salt

Rice:

2 c. white rice

4 c. water

To prepare the pineapple:

Hold the pineapple firmly and twist off the leaves.

Place the pineapple of a cutting board and cut off the ends.

It is time to cut away the skin.

Stand the pineapple on its bottom. Select a long, very sharp knife. Cut the skin away following the contour of the pineapple. For the second cut, use the "eyes" as a guide.

Continue cutting carefully and cleanly, continuing to follow the contours of the pineapple until all the peel has been removed.

Stand the pineapple on it's bottom. Cut it in half right through the core.

Cut each half in half length-wise creating four quarters. Cut the core from each quarter by standing it on end, grasping it firmly with your finger tips and cut downwards just and the edge of the core. Set the cores aside for eating later or nibble on them while you prepare the dish.

Cut each quarter in half length-wise.

Cut each of the eight spears of pineapple into one inch pieces.

Place the pineapple pieces in a bowl and cover them with 2 cups of water. Set aside and let set for at least 20 minutes and several hours in the refrigerator, if possible.

Make the rice: Place rice and water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil. Cover and reduce heat. Simmer for 20 minutes or until water is absorbed. Meanwhile....

To finish the dish, remove pineapple from the refrigerator, drain liquid into 2 cup measure. Set the pineapple and liquid aside. Have 4 small bowls at the ready.

Cut the chicken into bite-sized cubes and place in a small bowl. Peel the ginger and slice and place with the chicken.

Slice the carrots and the celery on the diagonal into pieces about ½ inch thick, and place in another small bowl. Slice green pepper, and place in a small bowl. In the 4^th bowl, mix the cornstarch and ¼ c. water, set aside.

Place a wok or large, heavy skillet on the stove. Turn the burner to high and add the oil.

Add the chicken and ginger and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the pineapple. Add enough liquid to make 2 cups and add to the skillet. Bring to a boil. Cover, and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the carrots and celery and cook for 5 minutes.

Add the peppers and stir them in. Give the the cornstarch and water mixture a good stir and add to the wok. Cook for a few minutes until slightly thickened and the peppers are crisp tender.

Serve immediately with the rice.

Guacamole!

2010-05-19T17:43:00.000-07:00

My cousin Cole and I were doing a power shop for our multi-day cooking fest. Of course, when you power-shop things happen, purchases are made, and you come home with ever so much more than you meant to. But, that is part of the joy of a power shop. However, when avocadoes are on sale, and avocadoes are almost never on sale, you don’t just walk by! Especially when two out of the two people involved in the power shop adore avocadoes. Cole’s exclaiming that she wanted to learn how to make Guacamole was the clincher. It took about 10 seconds for us to decide that Guacamole would make the perfect appetizer for the small hoard of male guests who would be coming for dinner. Into the basket went the carefully selected avocadoes and a bag each of blue and white tortilla chips.

The simplest dishes are often the most difficult to make as there is nothing to hide behind. Our inclination is to “gussy” up a simple dish. Take Guacamole. Americans like things big, and flashy, and have a tendency to turn this simple Mexican dish into an American free-for-all by adding everything but the kitchen sink. Which makes me ask, “What’s the point?” The only reason to eat Guacamole is the avocado’s marvelously subtle flavor.

When Cole placed the dish of Guacamole on the table with the basket of chips, it took all of 2 seconds for the small hoard of males to pounce and start scarfing. As it happened, everyone was a Guacamole fan, and raved about the flavor and texture of the dish. I’m sure your guests will too! (Needless to say, the only thing left was the empty bowl.)

Guacamole

1 lime

5 ripe avocados

2 cloves garlic, pressed

1 tsp. grated red onion

1 tsp. cumin (or to taste)

2 Tbsp. minced cilantro (more if you like)

Kosher or sea salt

1 ripe tomato, diced

White corn chips

Blue corn chips

Juice the lime and set aside. Cut the avocadoes in half and stone them. With a spoon scoop the flesh of the avocado into a medium-sized mixing bowl. Pour the lime juice over the avocado. With a fork mix in the lime juice mashing the avocadoes as you do so.

Mix in the garlic, red onion, cumin, and cilantro. Season to taste with Kosher salt. Scrape the guacamole into a serving bowl. Sprinkle the diced tomato on top. Put the chips in a bowl or cloth-lined basket. Serve the Guacamole immediately with the chips.

A Long History with Chicken

2010-05-09T17:18:00.000-07:00

My mother grew up during the depression on a dairy farm in rural New Hampshire, and her family has a long history with chicken. Every morning my mother accompanied my grandmother to the hen house to collect the eggs and feed the hens. As a child I remember doing the same with my aunts and then “candling” and packaging the eggs before going on the milk route with my grandfather. Many years later my uncles raised chickens, renewing this long association. Several times a year my mother and father would travel from Vermont to the New Hampshire farm of my mother’s childhood to help cull the birds, returning with a cooler full of delicious organic chickens.

A few years later at the B&B where my parent’s 50^th wedding anniversary was being celebrated, the family who owned the B&B was experiencing a crisis--a pet chicken with a broken leg and a $200 vet bill. My Aunt Bea’s response to the pet crisis was, “I can fix this problem for 30 cents!” (The going price for a chick.) That very same week, another family in my parent’s community experienced a pet chicken crisis when a dog attacked and killed Bock Bock, the pet chicken of the young boy next door. In retaliation, the boy’s father shot and killed the dog. This incident was the lead story in the local paper and spawned a controversy that became the source of unlimited headaches for the Animal Control Officer, who just happened to be my father!

Present time (and a number of years later), DH and I were visiting my cousin Cole (Aunt Bea’s daughter) over her Spring break. The weather was positively terrible, prompting me to ask Cole if there was anything in particular she was interested in learning how to cook. Well, there was this one dish Aunt T (my mother) used to make. What was it? I don’t remember. Can you describe it? Hmmmm, she dropped biscuits onto it while it was baking. That could only be one dish, chicken pot pie. And, we were back to chicken!

Before anything could be decided, Cole and I needed to talk chicken. There were several ways we could prepare chicken for use in the pie. One would be to buy chicken breasts and poach them, another would to bake assorted pieces for dinner and prepare extra; or we could roast a chicken. Any of these would work, but nothing compared to the flavor and moistness of chicken roasted on the bone. We talked about the how’s and why’s for a few minutes, and went with roasting. We moved onto finalizing our menus for the next few days, compiled the shopping list, and headed to the A&P for a power shop.

To prepare the roast chicken, we logged onto this blog and followed the recipe for Roast Chicken--click here for recipe, which was absolutely delicious. Then, we stripped the remaining meat off the carcass. The carcass we placed in a large pot and followed my recipe for making stock, which we would use for the pot pie’s gravy.

The meat we set aside for use in the pot pie. Any leftover stock Cole would freeze and use for soup. As it turned out, Cole had been wanting to learn how to make stock for a while. Throughout our time cooking together, we worked on a variety of skills and techniques, which made our stay a comprehensive and on-going cooking lesson. I hope Cole enjoyed herself, ‘cause I sure did!

Notes for this recipe: This is a crowd-sized recipe, but can be scaled down. Due to its rich flavor and firm texture, the potato of choice for this recipe is Yukon Gold. Commercial chicken stock can be substituted for the home made stock.

We prepared the vegetables for the pot pie ahead of time and added the scrapings and scraps to the stock pot for additional flavor. The stock was used to make the gravy.

Aunt T’s Chicken Pot Pie

10 medium carrots peeled and sliced

6 medium-sized Yukon Gold potatoes diced (do not peel)

4 stalks celery, plus inner stalks with leaves, sliced

1/2 of a red pepper seeded and chopped

1 small green pepper seeded and chopped

1 medium onion peeled and chopped

1 bay leaf

3 to 4 cups cubed cooked chicken

¼ finely chopped flat leaf parsley

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

Gravy (click for link)

Corn Meal Biscuits (recipe below)

Select a deep heat-proof 9x13 inch baking dish and set aside.

Put the carrots in a small sauce pan, cover with water, add 1 tsp. kosher salt. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until just tender. Immediately drain water into simmering stock pot. Set carrots aside. Place the potatoes in a small sauce pan, cover with water, add 1 tsp. kosher salt. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until just tender. Add potatoes to carrots and set aside. Drain water off into simmering stock pot.

While the carrots and potatoes are cooking, sauté the vegetables. Place a large frying pan on the stove, turn burner to medium, add 2 tbsp. of olive oil, and swirl to cover the bottom. When oil is just hot add the celery, red pepper, onion and bay leaf. Saute just until the onion is translucent. Stir in the drained potatoes and carrots, cubed chicken and parsley. Mix to combine and cook for about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and scrape into the 9x13 inch baking pan. Preheat the oven to 350.

Prepare the gravy, seasoning to taste, and pour over the chicken and vegetables covering to within ¼ inch of top of the pan. Put the pot pie into the preheated oven. Bake for 20 minutes.

Prepare the biscuits.

Corn Meal Drop Biscuits

1 c. flour

1 c. corn meal

3 tsp. baking powder

1 tsp. salt

Pepper

¼ c. unsalted butter

1 c. milk

Measure the flour, corn meal, salt, and a good grind of pepper into a bowl. Using a pastry blender or two knives, cut in the butter. When the butter has been thoroughly cut in, pour in the milk. Stir with a fork until well combined. Place to the side.

Remove the pot pie from the oven. Using two large spoons, drop the biscuit batter evenly over the surface of the pot pie making 12 biscuits -- 3 across and 4 down. Do not crowd the biscuits, as they will expand during baking. Put the pot pie back into the oven. (Place the dish on a baking sheet if you are concerned about drips.) Bake for another 30 to 45 minutes until the pie is bubbling in the center and the biscuits are golden brown and cooked through.

Serve the dish at the table. Serve a biscuit with each portion. Sit back and wait for the compliments.

Not Quite Forgotten Knowledge

2010-04-27T15:49:00.000-07:00

(Photo by Bella)

Last fall I had the great good fortune to be at Boyers Orchard shortly after they had finished their annual Butternut harvest. The Butternut has never been easy to find commercially, but could usually be purchased unshelled in specialty stores in regions where the trees grow. These days, due to a fungus that is rapidly spreading through its habitats and killing the butternut trees, Butternuts (the fruit of this tree) are becoming increasingly difficult to find. The Boyers Orchard trees remain healthy and, so far, untouched by the fungus.

Butternuts are, in short, delicious. They are rich and “buttery” with a distinctive, but not unpleasant flavor. The skill of cracking them is well on it's way to forgotten knowledge. My father-in-law, Orion, is the only person I have ever known to crack butternuts making him the logical person to ask for a tutorial. Orion, now in his 80's, leads a very active life, and claims on his time must be made well in advance. It was essential that my tutorial take place before Easter, as I wanted to make a Vermont Maple Butternut Cake for the dessert spread. The maple cake recipe had been in development for a while, and the addition of butternuts would be quite nice indeed.

There were no worries about the butternuts having been stored in their shells since October. When stored in an air-tight container in a cool, dry place, the unshelled nuts keep very well. Due to their high fat content, once shelled the butternuts can go rancid quickly if not properly stored. Shelled butternuts can be kept in the refrigerator in an airtight container or double-bagged and stored in the freezer.

Orion and I chatted as we worked on the nuts. He used the hammer and I used the picks. He whacked away at the nuts telling me stories about how he and his sisters would hunt butternuts in the woods near their dairy farm every fall. As there was no money for them to be purchased, nuts of any kind were a luxury item. Orion's mother did not count on the butternuts Orion and his sisters harvested for her larder. In a good year they could harvest enough for his mother to use in baked goods through the long winter months. If it was a bad year, they went without.

To crack the nuts, Orion and his sisters would form an assembly line in the loft of the barn. Orion would crack the nuts and his sisters would extract the meat. Nuts requiring another whack would be tossed back to him, and, so it went until all the nuts had been cracked. Throughout the year, they saved the 100 pound grain bags for the fall nut harvest. One year, after a particularly good harvest there were so many bags of nuts Orion and his sisters couldn't carry them all. They went back to the house to get the cart leaving the bagged nuts in the butternut grove. When they returned with the cart, all the bags had been stolen. Orion and his sisters were crest-fallen, there would be no nuts that winter.

Orion was intrigued by my intention to use butternuts in a cake; his mother used them only in cookies and ice cream. On a dairy farm, there is no shortage of milk or cream, and his mother made ice cream often. The ice was harvested nearby and stored in their ice house.

The Butternut when fresh has a thick green husk. When dry, the husk becomes dark brown and papery. The shell is extremely hard with a sharp-ridged surface. The internal chambers make it virtually impossible to extract the meat whole. Be sure to sort through the nutmeat carefully and remove any of the hard, sharp bits of the shell and chamber pieces. If you should have the good fortune to find butternuts, be aware that the yield per nut is quite small. One pound of butternuts in the shell will yield between 1/2 and 1 cup of nut meat.

To crack the nuts you will need a hard flat surface, a pair of heavy leather gloves, a hammer, and some nut picks. (As you will see from the pictures, my father-in-law uses a stump.)

Hold the nut pointy side up with your gloved hands. Give it a good controlled whack with the hammer being careful not to hit your fingers. We found it easier to extract the nutmeat when the nut is cracked at the pointy end. Although the nut cracks more easily when hit on the side, the meat is more difficult to extract. Use nut picks to extract the nutmeat. Cracking butternuts really is a skill and takes some practice, but the end result is worth the time and effort.

Please note: Maple sugar and pure maple flavor are called for in this recipe. They are distinctive in flavor and give the cake another layer of dimension. These ingredients can be difficult to find, but not impossible. Maple sugar can be purchased at the Morse Farm and maple flavor through King Arthur Flour. Butternuts are more difficult. If trees grow in your area, in the fall check farmer's markets, farm stands, and local orchards. In northern Vermont, butternuts can be purchased in the fall at Boyers Orchard.

Vermont Maple Butternut Cake

2-1/4 c. sifted cake flour

¾ c. maple sugar (or granulated sugar)

2 tsp. baking powder

½ tsp. baking soda

1 tsp. salt

1 c. grade B maple syrup

1/2 c. buttermilk

1 tsp. pure maple flavoring (or 1-1/2 tsp. vanilla)

½ c. unsalted butter, softened

2 eggs

½ c. butternuts (or walnuts), toasted & chopped*

Grease and flour 2 round 9” baking pans. Set aside. Preheat oven to 350.

Combine flour, maple sugar, baking powder and salt in a bowl of a mixer. In a bowl combine ¼ c. of the buttermilk, the eggs and flavoring. Mix with a fork to combine and set aside. In another bowl, combine the remaining 1/4 c. buttermilk and the maple syrup. Set aside.

Beat the flour mixture for about 30 seconds on low. Add the butter and buttermilk and maple syrup mixture. Mix on medium speed until the butter is blended in, about 1 minute. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the egg, maple flavoring, and buttermilk mixture 1/3 at a time beating for 20 seconds between each addition. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and beat for about 15 seconds. Stir in the butternuts. Divide the batter evenly between the prepared pans.

Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until a tester inserted in the center comes clean. Transfer to wire racks and cool for 10 minutes. Remove cakes from pans onto wire racks to cool completely.

To frost the cake: If the the layers have become domed during baking, level one layer with a leveler or toothpicks and a sharp knife. Place the leveled layer on a plate, spread with Aunt Carolyn's Maple Mountain frosting and place the second layer on top. Frost the sides and top of the cake with the remaining frosting. Decorate with pieces of toasted butternuts.

*To toast butternuts: Preheat oven to 350. Place the nuts on a baking sheet with sides. Bake for 5 to 10 minutes until slightly golden and fragrant. Cool and chop.

This recipe was given to me by DH's Aunt Carolyn. It is quick to make, light, delicious, and not too sweet, and a perfect companion to the Vermont Maple Butternut Cake. Plan to use this frosting immediately. As this frosting does not "hold" well, frost the cake only a few hours before serving. There are no worries about raw egg whites as the boiled syrup heats the egg whites to the temperature necessary to kill bacteria.

Aunt Carolyn’s Maple Mountain Frosting

2 egg whites, room temperature

1 c. grade B maple syrup

In a medium bowl, beat the egg whites to stiff peaks. Set aside.

Have a two cup heat-proof glass measuring cup at the ready. In a heavy saucepan bring the maple syrup to a slow boil over medium heat. When the surface of the syrup is covered with small bubbles, pour into the heat-proof measuring cup.

Beat the egg whites briefly. With the mixer on high pour the maple syrup into the egg whites in a slow thin stream. Do not allow the syrup to fall on the beaters. When the syrup is fully incorporated, beat until the frosting is cool and stiff peaks form. Use immediately.

Essential Versatility

2010-03-30T19:39:00.000-07:00

Entertaining is something we do often, and appetizers are an essential part of every gathering. When paired with a glass of wine or a cocktail, appetizers help to set people at ease and aid conversation. They also nicely whet the appetite! This is a recipe I make often and it is always well received. Traditionally, palmiers are a sweet pastry; this recipe is savory creating an interesting twist on this delicacy.

One of the beauties of this recipe is its versatility. Almost any combination of vegetables can be substituted for the roasted peppers, as long as they have been sauteed first, if necessary, to soften them. Prosciutto or other thinly sliced cooked meat can be substituted for the smoked salmon. I like to use fresh basil, but pesto can be used, as can tapenade. The recipe can also be halved. It can be made ahead and stored in the refrigerator or frozen. To make ahead, layer the cooked slices between waxed paper in an airtight container. Store in refrigerator overnight or freeze for up to one month. To reheat follow the baking directions below. If palmiers are not frozen, bake for 8 to 10 minutes or until heated through.

Smoked Salmon Palmiers

1 pkg. frozen sheet puff pastry, thawed

1 c. densely packed basil leaves, finely chopped

Olive oil

1 10 oz. pkg. frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry

¼ c. capers, rinsed

½ c. roasted red peppers, chopped

½ c. roasted yellow peppers, chopped

½ c. grated Parmesan cheese

8 oz. smoked salmon

1 egg

1 Tbsp. water

Preheat over to 400. Line two large baking sheets with parchment and set aside. In a small bowl, mix the chopped basil with enough olive oil to make it easily spreadable with a pastry brush—about 2 Tbsp. Set aside.

On a lightly floured surface roll one sheet of the puff pastry to an 11 inch square. Brush with half the basil mixture. Top with 2 Tbsp of the capers, then half of the spinach, red peppers, yellow peppers, Parmesan cheese, and smoked salmon. Sprinkle these ingredients evenly over the surface of the puff pastry.

Roll one side jelly-roll style carefully to the middle and stop.

Repeat with the other side rolling until both side meet in the middle. With a very sharp serrated knife carefully cut the roll into ½ inch slices.

Carefully transfer the slices to prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the other sheet of pastry. With a fork beat the egg and water until well mixed. Brush the tops of the slices.

Bake for about 20 minutes or until the slices are puffed and browned. Serve warm or transfer to wire racks to cool.

Makes about 24 slices.

A Sense of Well-being

2010-03-27T16:09:00.000-07:00

There is something elemental about kneading bread. To feel the bread move under your hands as they gently work it to a smooth elasticity. The smell of yeast as it takes hold and works its chemical magic. My journey with bread began, as did so many other adventures in cooking, in my early to mid-teens. I started with simple breads and worked my way up to coffee cakes. In my late teens I became more adventurous developing my skills and expanding my repertoire. By my early twenties I had been introduced to breads from many countries, including Brioche, which became my god. Tremendous satisfaction was derived from the baking of bread and to this day, a sense of well-being and all’s-right-with-the-world envelops me every time I place a loaf of freshly baked bread on the counter to cool.

We still eat mostly homemade bread, but the pace of life and the crush of responsibilities and obligations (work) do not often permit me the luxury of the joy of kneading. Now, I use a bread machine. Bella grew up eating homemade bread, and yes, it came from a bread machine. Even so, this bread was vastly superior to its commercially produced relations. Call it cheating, betrayal, whatever you want, but it was still homemade and it was still delicious!

Perhaps when retirement comes my way, I will once again find myself with the time to feel the dough move beneath my hands. Until then, I will happily use my bread machine to create the rolls, breads, and coffee cakes my family loves.

Quick Tarragon Rolls

2-1/2 c. bread flour

2-1/4 tsp. instant yeast (1 pkg. yeast)

2 Tbsp. parsley, finely chopped

2 tsp. dried tarragon, crushed

¼ tsp. celery seed

1 c. water

2 Tbsp. sugar

2 Tbsp. oil

1/2 tsp. salt

1 egg

Combine all ingredients in work bowl of bread machine. Set to dough cycle. Watch while mixing and add enough flour to create a smooth and elastic dough.

While cycle is running, grease regular sized muffin cups and set aside.

When the cycle has completed divide dough into 12 equal portions. Shape into rounded balls and place into the greased muffin cups.

Fill a 9x13 inch pan with about ½ inch of boiling water. Set a wire rack over the top of the pan. Place the filled muffin tin on top of the rack, cover with a towel. Let rise until nearly double (20 to 30 minutes). Preheat oven to 375 and bake for 15 to 18 minutes, or until muffins are golden.

Place on a wire rack and cool for 10 minutes. Remove rolls from muffin tin to wire rack and cool completely.

12 rolls

Favorite Flavor Combination

2010-03-11T18:12:00.000-08:00

This cookie is fabulous and worth the time you will spend making it. It belongs in my “fussy” cookie category. When holiday time rolls around and I’m asking my family which cookies they would like on the baking list, this one always gets mentioned by both DH and Bella. Chocolate and caramel come right behind chocolate and raisins on DH’s list of favorite flavor combinations. The combined flavors of dark chocolate and caramel are sublime. Add toasted pecans and this cookie moves into divinity. The texture of the cookie, the chewy richness of the caramel and the deep flavor of the dark chocolate all conspire to destroy any resolve to eat just one!

Chocolate Caramel Delights

3 oz. bittersweet chocolate

1 c. unsalted butter, softened

2 c. flour

1 tsp. baking soda

1 tsp. salt

1 c. sugar

1 egg

1 tsp. vanilla

½ c. pecans

14 oz. pkg. caramels

2 Tbsp. milk

3 oz. Bittersweet chocolate

1 Tbsp. shortening

Put the chocolate and butter in the top of a double boiler over simmering water. Do not allow the water to touch the bottom of the insert. Melt the chocolate and butter, stirring frequently to combine and smooth.

Measure the flour, baking soda and salt into a bowl and set aside.

Place the sugar in a large mixing bowl. Pour the chocolate and butter mixture over and stir to combine. Stir in the egg and vanilla. Stir in the flour mixture. When well combined, cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour or overnight.

While dough is chilling, preheat oven to 350. Place pecans on a baking sheet with sides and toast in the oven 5 to 8 minutes or until lightly browned and fragrant. Do not let them burn. When cool, finely chop and place in a small bowl. Set aside.

Unwrap the caramels and place in the top of a double boiler. Add the milk. Over simmering water heat the caramels until melted. Stir frequently to smooth and blend in the milk. When melted and smooth turn burner to low and keep warm.

When the dough is chilled, use a 1 Tbsp scoop to measure out dough. Shape into balls, and roll in the chopped pecans. Place 2 inches apart on ungreased cookie sheets. Use the end of a wooden spoon to make an indentation in the balls. Use your fingers to support the sides of the ball as you make the indentation. Bake for 6 to 8 minutes or until the cookie is set. Remove from the oven and immediately reimpress the indentation. Remove to wire racks to cool.

Place wax paper under the wire racks. With a small spoon fill the indentation with about 1 teaspoonful of caramel.

While the caramel sets, place the chocolate and shortening in the top of adouble boiler over simmering water. Stir to smooth and combine. When melted drizzle over the caramel. Cool completely.

When cooled and set, layer cookies in an airtight container separated by wax paper. Store in a cool, dry place.

Makes 4 dozen cookies.

Splashy Surprise

2010-03-09T17:33:00.000-08:00

This recipe is based on the recipe that was a senior winner in the 1^st Grand National Recipe and Baking Contest held at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in New York City in 1949. This prize-winning recipe was submitted by Miss Laura Rott of Naperville, Illinois. The contest was created to celebrate Pillsbury’s 80^th birthday. The contest was nick named “Bake-Off” and it fit so well, that it stuck. A tremendous success, the contest has been repeated annually for the past fifty years.

I started making these cookies professionally for a splashy surprise on cookie platters. A few leftovers on a plate and my family was hooked! They do fall into my “fussy” cookie category, but they are so very worth the time and effort. An assembly line process helps to take some of the tedium out of their making. I measure out all the balls, then flatten them and enfold the mints, etc. This works quite well for me, but you may find another process that works better for you.

Notes for this cookie: Although chocolate mint wafers are called for, any chocolate wafer of similar size and shape can be used.

Starlight Mint Cookies

3 c. flour

1 tsp. baking soda

1 c. packed brown sugar

½ c. sugar

3/4 c. unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 tsp. vanilla

2 eggs

60 solid chocolate mint candy wafers

60 walnut halves or pieces

Measure the flour and baking soda into a bowl and set aside. In a large bowl beat the sugars and butter until light and fluffy. Scrap the sides, add the vanilla and eggs, and beat until blended in. Scrape the sides, add the flour mixture and beat on low speed until combined. Cover and refrigerate for at least two hours or overnight.

Preheat oven to 375. Count out walnut halves into a bowl and set aside. Unwrap the wafers into a bowl and set aside. Have cookie sheets handy.

With a 1 Tbsp scoop measure out the dough into balls. When the step is complete, flatten the balls of dough in the palm of your hand. Place a chocolate wafer in the middle of the flattened dough. Fold the dough over the wafer so it completely covers it. Place the cookies seam side down about 2 inches apart on the cookie sheet.

When this step is complete, place a walnut half or a few walnut pieces on top of each cookie. Bake for 6 to 8 minutes or until the cookie is a light golden brown. Rotate sheets halfway through cooking time. Remove immediately to wire racks.

Makes about 5 dozen cookies

I Got Lucky

2010-03-04T20:02:00.000-08:00

My mother was a fabulous cook. For a number of years she had her own catering business, which she ran with one of her friends. I spent many hours watching my mother cook and bake. Mom was usually moving too fast to teach while she was working, but every once in a while, if you caught her just right, you got lucky! One Saturday morning when I was about twelve, Mom was making her macaroni and cheese, I got lucky.

My mother worked with a practiced ease—this was a dish she could have made blind folded. I stood to the side and watched, fascinated and transfixed. At one point she turned around and looked at me. I began asking questions. Why do you do this? Why do you do it that way? What does it do? How do you know to do this? Why? Why? Why? How? Why? Why? My mother patiently answered every question. This is how and when I learned to make a roux, and Mom’s Famous Macaroni and Cheese.

Notes for this recipe: This is a crowd-sized recipe, but can be halved. The type of cheese really does make a difference. For the best flavor use a high quality extra sharp cheddar. I use Cabot Extra Sharp Cheddar Cheese. This cheese has excellent melting qualities and gives the sauce a velvety rich texture. Do not use low-fat cheese. Use unsalted butter, no substitutes. This is not a difficult dish to make, but does take patience and care.

Mom’s Famous Macaroni and Cheese

2 Tbsp. butter

1 lb. pasta (such as: penne, macaroni, gemelli, cavatappi)

4 oz. unsalted butter

½ c. flour

4 c. milk

1 lb. extra sharp cheddar cheese, cut into 1 inch chunks

8 oz. extra sharp cheddar cheese, grated

Preheat oven to 350. Grease a 4 qt. heavy casserole with the 2 Tbsp of butter and set aside. Cook the pasta according to directions on package. Drain, rinse thoroughly and pour into the prepared casserole. Set aside.

In a heavy saucepan melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the flour and whisk to form a paste or roux. Add the milk and whisk to combine. Cook the sauce until slightly thickened, stirring frequently. Add the chunks of cheddar and stir them in. Continue to stir until the chunks have melted and are combined into the sauce. Stir continuously, do not allow the sauce to boil or burn.

When the sauce is thickened and velvety pour it over the pasta and sprinkle the grated cheese evenly over the top. Bake for 1 hour or until the sides are bubbling and the top is a crispy golden brown.

A Particular Treat

2010-03-04T16:42:00.000-08:00

Whenever there was leftover pie crust dough my mother made what she called “Snickerdoodles.” These were a particular treat and lasted about 1 minute. Even my father would eat more than one. Dad was not a fussy eater he just believed in the abundance of sufficiency and rarely over ate. But, he did have a powerful sweet tooth and these treats were among Dad’s favorites. He’d pour himself a cup of coffee or a glass of milk, pile a few of these onto a plate and have himself a snack break. My mother reveled in his obvious enjoyment.

My family doesn’t like these any less. When I make pies I make extra dough just to be sure there will be enough left for these delectable treats. Everyone knows what will be coming out of the oven and they hover at the kitchen door. As soon as these babies are cool enough to handle, they are gone, often before they can be plated. Hence the extra pie dough!

Please note: Due to the molten sugar, remove the pastries from cookie sheets immediately. While cookie sheets are still warm, douse them with water to begin dissolving the sugar.

Mom’s Snickerdoodles

Pie crust dough for 1 single 9 inch pie crust

4 Tbsp unsalted butter

1 c. sugar

2 Tbsp. cinnamon

Preheat oven to 350. Lightly grease cookie sheets and set aside.

Place the butter in a small saucepan and melt. Combine the cinnamon and sugar and set aside. Roll out half the pie crust dough on a lightly floured surface into a roughly shaped rectangle to about 1/8 of an inch thickness. Brush with 2 tbsp. of the melted butter. Sprinkle evenly with ½ c. of the cinnamon sugar mixture. Roll the dough from the LONG end (not the short) into a long, thin roulade. With a VERY sharp knife cut into rounds about 3/8's of an inch think. Place cut side down on prepared cookie sheets. Repeat with remaining dough. Bake for about 8 minutes or until the edges are lightly browned. Rotate racks half way through baking time. Remove to wire rack immediately to cool.

Elegant Simplicity

2010-03-03T18:20:00.000-08:00

Every Christmas, my mother made dozens of many different kinds of cookies. My favorites were her Vanilla Spritz and Sugar Cookies. When Bella was old enough we made sugar cookies frequently. For every school event Bella brought sugar cookies. Holidays meant, yup, sugar cookies. Over the years we have developed quite a cookie cutter collection.

Every year at Christmas-time Bella and I still try to bake sugar cookies together. This year Bella was able to come home a few days early, and we had a wonderful time baking. We made many of our traditional favorites, including Sugar Cookies. We made the colored sugars and used our favorite cookie cutters. It was such a wonderful treat!

This is the recipe my mother used. It is elegant in its simplicity in both flavor and the making.

To enhance your creative possibilities, make your own colored sugars. For colored sugar how to, see my earlier post Surprisingly Easy.

Best Ever Sugar Cookies

2-1/2 c. flour

1 tsp. baking powder

1 tsp. salt

¾ c. unsalted butter, room temperature

1 c. sugar

2 eggs

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Measure the dry ingredients into a bowl, stir to combine, and set aside. Place the butter, sugar and eggs in a medium-sized bowl. Beat on medium speed until well combined. Scrape sides of the bowl. Add the dry ingredients, and blend in on low. Chill dough covered for at least one hour or over night.

Preheat oven to 400. Have cookie sheets handy. Remove dough from the refrigerator. Cut into thirds. Roll one third of the dough out on a floured surface to about ¼ inch thickness. Cut into desired shapes using cookie cutters. Place on ungreased cookie sheets. Decorate as desired with colored sugars, dragees, nonpareils, edible glitter, etc. Bake for about 4 minutes until cookies are set and the edges are a very light golden brown. Rotate half way through baking time. Watch carefully as the cookies burn easily. Remove to wire rack to cool completely. Store in airtight container with wax paper between layers.

Surprisingly Easy

2010-03-02T19:10:00.000-08:00

Variety is the spice of life, and when decorating sugar cookies it can make all the difference. I’m speaking specifically about colored sugars. Years ago frustrated with the lack of color choices, the problems created by the coarseness of the sugar, and the bitter after taste imparted by the dyes, I began making my own colored sugars. It is surprisingly easy. There is no limit to the variety of colors and the texture of granulated sugar is perfect for decorating cookies. The only color I have found to leave an after taste is red, and only when a very intense color is desired.

It is essential to use paste colors. Do not substitute liquid or gel paste products, these contain too much moisture and will dissolve the sugar. Paste colors can be purchased almost anywhere cake decorating or party supplies are sold. There are a number of name brands--Wilton, Ateco, and Cake Craft are among the most well known. Whether you use these brands or another is not a factor in successfully coloring sugar.

The variety of colors made available to me by making my own colored sugars transformed cookie decorating in my professional world. My customers loved it and so did I. So will you. Enjoy!

Colored Sugars

Granulated sugar

Paste food colorings

Put about 1/2 cup sugar into a glass or metal bowl. With a toothpick scoop out a tiny amount of the desired color onto the sugar. With your fingers rub/mix the paste into the sugar. Add paste a little bit at a time, rubbing/mixing as you go, until the desired color is achieved. Scrape the finished sugar into an air-tight container and store in a cool dry place. Use on cookies, cakes, muffins and other baked goods.

Valued Family Traditions

2010-03-02T16:54:00.000-08:00

As a child I spent a great deal of time with my grandparents. They lived just a mile or two away. The day I was deemed old enough to ride my bicycle to my grandparent’s was a milestone in my young life. My bicycle and I were inseparable, and I rode to my grandparent’s often.

My grandmother and I would sew together. She taught me how to darn socks, make patchwork quilts, and do cross-stitch embroidery. I would help my grandparent’s with household chores, and often stayed for meals. My grandmother was a wonderful cook. I would watch her cook and once in a while we would make something together. Some of my most valuable cooking lessons were learned in her kitchen.

When I was around twelve we made gingerbread cookies together. The index card I copied the recipe onto still lives in my recipe box written in my childish hand. The memories attached to these cookies are among my most cherished. Over the years, I have made these cookies many times. My father remembered eating them as a child, and they always brought a smile to his face. Bella is the third generation to bake Gram's Gingerbread Cookies. There are pictures of her decorating these cookies when she was barely tall enough to stand at the counter. We still make these cookies together every Christmas. These are the family traditions I value.

Gram’s Gingerbread Cookies

2 c. flour

2 tsp. baking soda

1/2 tsp. cinnamon

½ tsp cloves

2 tsp. ginger

½ tsp. salt

¾ c. unsalted butter, room temperature

1 c. brown sugar

1 egg

¼ c. molasses

Dried cranberries, dark and golden raisins, whole cloves, crystallized ginger

Sift together the dry ingredients and set aside. Cream butter until fluffy. Add sugar, egg and molasses. Beat to combine. Add the dry ingredients and beat to combine. Cover and refrigerate at least two hours or overnight.

Remove dough from the refrigerator and allow to sit for about 10 minutes to soften slightly. Preheat oven to 375. Lightly grease cookie sheets and set aside.

Divide dough into quarters. Roll one quarter out on lightly floured surface and cut with desired shapes. Place well apart on prepared sheets. Repeat with remaining dough.

Re-roll scraps, cut and place on sheets. Decorate the cookies with dried cranberries, raisins, whole cloves and crystallized ginger.

Bake for 8 minutes rotating sheets after 4 minutes. Watch the cookies closely during second half of baking as they burn easily. Remove to wire rack to cool completely.

Sweetness of Maple

2010-02-25T20:16:00.000-08:00

This cookie was developed several years ago when I needed something maple for a catering job. Unhappy with the usual recipes, it was time to be creative—this cookie was the end result. Although it falls into my "fussy cookie" category, it is well worth the effort. The cookie is a contrast in textures and flavors that insist on being savored. The sweetness of the maple, the richness of the butter, and the toasted goodness of the walnuts all combine to create a taste and texture sensation—a crunchy cookie with a filling that melts on the tongue.

For the best maple flavor always use Grade B syrup. Do not substitute maple-flavored syrup. This product is corn syrup with maple flavoring, and suitable only for the garbage. Maple sugar can be difficult to find, but not impossible. I purchase mine at The Morse Farm and so can you!

Maple Walnut Buttons

Cookies:

1 c. unsalted butter, room temperature

1/4 c. maple sugar

1/4. c. sugar

1/2 c. dark maple syrup (grade B)

2 egg yolks

2-1/2 c. flour

Filling:

1/2 c. Confectioner's Sugar

1/4 c. unsalted butter

3 TBSP. maple syrup (grade B)

1/2 c. coarsely chopped walnuts, toasted

1 egg white, slightly beaten

For cookie dough:

Beat 1 butter and sugars until light and fluffy. Add maple syrup and egg yolks, blend well. Mix in flour, mixing well. Cover and refrigerate 1 hour for easier handling.

For filling:

In small saucepan, combine confectioner's sugar, butter, maple syrup and bring to a boil. Remove from heat. Stir in toasted walnuts. Refrigerate at least 10 minutes.

Heat oven to 375. Lightly grease cookie sheets.

Using a small scoop, shape dough into 1 balls. Place 2" apart on greased cookie sheets. Use the end of the handle of a wooden spoon, and carefully make a deep indentation in the center of each cookie.

Bake at 375 for 5 minutes. Remove from oven.

Brush lightly with egg white. Use the end of the handle of a wooden spoon and re-imprint the indentation.

Fill with 1/2 tsp of filling.

Return to oven and bake an additional 6-9 minutes rotating racks at 3 minutes or until light golden brown. If you must go to 9 minutes reduce oven temp to 350 for last 3 minutes. Remove to wire racks, and cool completely.

Makes 4 to 4-1/2 doz. cookies

Flavors and Textures

2010-02-24T19:01:00.000-08:00

This cake is all about contrasting and complimentary flavors and textures. When I was baking professionally, I was always looking for recipes that would allow me to provide low-cost, high quality cakes to my commercial customers. Most of the recipes that came my way required reworking, and this recipe was no exception. The goal was to enhance the flavor and texture and bring the cake from okay to exceptional. This cake was a prime seller, so I think it is safe to say the goal was achieved.

The lemon flavor, moist dense texture, the delightful crunch and musky flavor of the toasted poppy seeds all help to put this cake above most other lemon poppy seed cake recipes. The glaze intensifies the lemon flavor and enhances and then seals in moisture. This cake holds well and is a good traveler. It is well suited for an elegant dinner party or a backyard barbecue. Make it a day or two ahead of time to allow the flavors to develop. Store in an air tight cake keeper.

Deluxe Lemon Poppy Seed Cake

¼ c. poppy seeds

Zest of 1 lemon

3 c. flour

½ tsp. baking powder

½ tsp. soda

½ tsp. salt

1 c. milk

½ tsp. vanilla

1 c. unsalted butter, room temperature

2 c. sugar

4 eggs

Glaze:

¼ c. lemon juice

½ c. sugar

Preheat oven to 325. Grease and flour a 12 inch Bundt pan or a tube pan.

Place the poppy seeds into a small sheet pan with sides. Place in the preheated oven and toast until lightly browned and fragrant, about 5 to 8 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. Zest the lemon and set aside.

Measure the dry ingredients into a bowl. Stir to combine and set aside. In a 2 cup measure combine the milk and vanilla and set aside.

Cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the flour and milk alternately, beginning and ending with the flour. Add the poppy seeds and lemon zest and combine well. Scrape batter into the prepared pan.

Bake 55 to 60 minutes or until pick comes out clean. Cool for 10 minutes on a wire rack. Make the glaze during the 10 minute cooling time. Combine the lemon juice and sugar in a non-reactive pan. Set on burner and turn heat to medium-low. Gently heat glaze stirring occasionally until sugar is dissolved. This will take approximately 10 minutes.

Turn cake onto the wire rack. Brush immediately with the lemon glaze. Use all the glaze. Cool cake completely.

Simple, but Satisfying

2010-02-17T19:59:00.000-08:00

Cider is very close to being the Vermont state beverage. In the fall nothing tastes better than a cold glass of cider. But, in the winter when the chill is hard upon us, mulled cider warms deep. The word mull has many meanings, but in cooking it means to combine with sugar and spices to make a hot drink. This is a simple, but satisfying recipe for mulling cider.

Mulled Cider

1 gallon apple cider

1 tsp. whole allspice

2 cinnamon sticks

1 tsp. whole cloves

1 orange

Pour the cider into a non-reactive pot. Put the allspice and cinnamon sticks into an infuser, cheesecloth can also be used, and set aside. Cut two thick slices off the orange. Stud the peel of each with 6 whole cloves, and drop into the cider. Put any remaining cloves into the infuser or cheesecloth with the other spices. If using cheesecloth, tie it up with a piece of string. Drop the spices into the cider. Heat slowly and simmer gently for about an hour. When heated through and nicely fragrant, remove the spices and serve the cider in mugs

Mull It!

2010-02-17T08:31:00.000-08:00

Mulled beverages help to take the chill off, which is why they are my beverage of choice during the colder winter months. This is a simple and uncomplicated recipe developed several years ago when I couldn’t find one I liked. Every recipe was over spiced, required too much additional sugar and/or brandy or some other alcoholic beverage. They did not appeal!

Notes: Expensive wine is not required here, jug wine does the job quite nicely. If you prefer a sweeter mulled wine, add a tablespoon or two of sugar. A jigger or two of Napoleon brandy adds a nice kick, if that appeals. We entertain in numbers, fewer than twelve is uncommon, so this recipe is formulated for a gallon, but the quantity can be adjusted to suit your needs. Any unconsumed wine can be poured back into the bottle and consumed later or used in cooking.

Mulled Wine

1 gallon Burgundy

1/4 whole almonds

½ c. raisins

2 cinnamon sticks

1 orange

Whole cloves

2 dried figs

1 c orange juice

About one hour before serving, pour the Burgundy into a non-reactive pot. Place the almonds and raisins in an infuser or tie in a piece of cheesecloth and drop into the wine. Add the cinnamon sticks, figs and orange juice. Cut four thick slices off the orange, and stud the rind of each with 5 cloves. Add them to the pot. Turn the burner to low and gently heat the wine. Do not allow to boil. When heated through, remove the spices, ladle into mugs or heat-proof glasses and serve.

Slice and Bake

2010-02-16T16:56:00.000-08:00

If you have not yet developed a relationship with refrigerator cookies, I suggest you start here and now. Refrigerator cookies are a baker’s dream. The dough can be prepped a day or two in advance and then sliced and baked just in time to serve your guests cookies fresh from the oven. Slice and bake them all or only as many as you need.

My relationship with refrigerator cookies began about the time I discovered this recipe, and it has remained strong these many years. This recipe was copied into the back of my high school history notebook from some woman’s magazine, unlike many of its neighbors, it has survived the test of time. This is a straightforward, uncomplicated refrigerator cookies. It requires a little care in its preparation and baking, for which you are rewarded with a deliciously beautiful cookie.

Notes for this cookie: Use unsalted butter only, no substitutes. Pure vanilla extract only, please! Finely chopping glaceed cherries is a nuisance but it must be done. Use a sharp knife and take care with your fingers! Do not be tempted to over-bake these cookies, as they become very hard. Bake just until the edges are set and lightly golden.

Santa’s Whiskers

1 c. unsalted butter, room temperature

1 c. sugar

2 Tbsp. milk

1 tsp. vanilla

2-1/2 c. flour

1/2 c. finely chopped red glaceed cherries

1/4 c. finely chopped green glaceed cherries

¾ c. sweetened flaked coconut

In a mixing bowl cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Blend in the milk and vanilla. Blend in the flour. Add the glaceed cherries and mix just until blended in. Divide dough into two equal portions. For into two rolls 8 inches long and approximately 2 inches in diameter. Place the coconut on a sheet of wax paper. Roll each log in the coconut. Wrap and waxed paper and chill several hours or over night.

Preheat oven to 375. Have ungreased cookie sheets handy.

Remove logs from refrigerator one at a time. Remove wax paper and place the log on a cutting board. Cut ¼ inch thick slices, rotating log as necessary during cutting to keep slices round, and place on cookie sheets. Repeat with the remaining log. Bake for 5 to 8 minutes or until the edges are golden. Middle will still be soft, but sets during cooling. Rotate sheets halfway through baking time.

Makes about 6 dozen cookies.

A Spectacular Cookie

2010-02-15T17:57:00.000-08:00

This spectacular cookie has been part of my holiday baking repertoire since my high school days. Regrettably, I don’t remember how the recipe came to me. But, more important—it did! This is what I call a “fussy” cookie, which means it has lots of steps and takes time. But, it is worth the effort. The cookie is a good keeper, looks fantastic on a cookie platter, and tastes fabulous.

Notes for this cookie: Use unsalted butter only, no substitutes. Use pure vanilla extract. Due to the number of steps required to assemble this cookie, do each stage completely before moving onto the next. For example, measure out all the balls, then roll and shape the wreaths, then brush all the wreaths with egg white, etc. To insure that cookies do not stick to the sheets, remove them immediately to wire racks to cool.

Norwegian Wreaths

1 c. unsalted butter, room temperature

1-1/2 c.confectioner’s sugar

1 egg

1 tsp. vanilla extract

2 tsp. finely grated orange peel

2-1/2 c. flour

1 egg white, lightly beaten

Additional granulated sugar

Red and green glaceed cherries for garnish

Preheat oven to 375. Have handy 4 ungreased cookie sheets. Cut 8 red glaceed cherries in half and cut each have into quarters—one piece for each cookie. Cut green glaceed cherries in half and cut each half into 6 or eight pieces—2 for each cookie.

Cream together the butter and confectioner’s sugar. Add the egg, vanilla, and orange peel and mix to combine. On low blend in the flour.

Using a 1 Tbsp. scoop measure out all the dough. Roll each portion into a pencil thin strip 5 inches long. Form the “wreaths” by shaping each strip into a circle with overlapping ends and place on cookie sheets. Brush each “wreath” with lightly beaten egg white, sprinkle with sugar. Place a piece of red glaceed cherry where the ends of the “wreath” overlaps, and a piece of green glaceed cherry on each side.

Bake 6 to 8 minutes or until the cookie is set, but not browned. Rotate sheets half-way through baking time.

Remove cookies from sheets to wire racks immediately. Cool completely. Store in air tight container separated by was paper.

Makes about 4 dozen.

Buttery Deliciousness

2010-02-15T15:38:00.000-08:00

My mother made Spritz every year for her Christmas cookie platter. The memories of watching my mother extrude the dough onto the sheets from her press still live in my mind’s eye. I can taste their buttery richness and savor that taste memory. Crisp, buttery, melt-in-your-mouth deliciousness!

Spritz make a wonderful addition to any cookie platter. The combination of quick and easy to make combined with great taste make this cookie a baker’s delight. That Spritz also look fantastic is a bonus. Butter must be used in this recipe, and preferably unsalted. It is important not to substitute. Butter is important for flavor, but also the proper texture for extruding and baking. Use pure vanilla extract. Vanilla flavored extract just doesn’t have the same flavor. To make your own colored sugar how-to--click here.

A word about cookie presses. Simple is the by-word here. There are many different types, and I’ve used a number of them. Don’t bother with fancy presses as they just don’t work all that well. Get yourself an old aluminum Mirro model, in my humble opinion, these are the absolute best cookie presses. They aren’t difficult to find. Check yard sales, second hand stores, and antique shops, and they are also plentiful on E-Bay.

There are a number of Spritz recipes in my cookie recipe box, and someday they may be posted here. But, it is the basic simply delicious Scandinavian vanilla Spritz that has the honor of being posted first.

Christmas Tree Spritz

1 c. unsalted butter, room temperature

2/3 c. sugar

3 egg yolks

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

2-1/2 c. flour

Preheat oven to 400. Cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add egg yolks and flavoring and mix thoroughly. Add the flour and mix to combine. Do not over beat. Divide dough into 4 equal portions. Fit the cookie press with the Christmas Tree plate. Place one of the portions of dough into the press.

Extrude onto ungreased cookie sheets. Repeat with the remaining dough. Decorate cookies using green tinted sugar, colored nonpareils, and a silver or gold dragee or yellow “deco” star as the “tree topper.” Bake 4 to 6 minutes or until cookie is set. Rotate sheets halfway during baking time. Remove immediately to racks to cool completely. Store in airtight container separated by wax paper. Makes about 6 dozen cookies.

Valentine's Day or Christmas, That Is The Question

2010-02-10T15:11:00.000-08:00

At holiday time we traveled south to visit Bella and spend some time in one of our favorite cities--Boston. The evening found us serving dinner in our hotel room. We served a giant platter of holiday cookies and confections for dessert.

It was extraordinarily gratifying to watch the cookies disappear. Our young guests were very civilized about sharing them—there weren't enough for everyone to have one of each kind. Someone commented on the small round cookie with the red center, and what was it called? Well, it isn’t called anything—it’s new and needs a name. Some time went by and names were tossed around and the platter continued to empty. Then Steb, Bella’s beau, said, “Cranberry Love Buttons.” What? “I think you should call them Cranberry Love Buttons!” And, so the cookie was named.

It was decided that this cookies would also make a lovely Valentine's Day treat.

Cranberry Love Buttons

Cranberry Filling:

See my earlier post “I’ll Take Mine Whole Please”.

Dough:

1-3/4 c. flour

1 tsp. baking powder

¼ tsp. salt

¼ tsp. allspice

½ c. unsalted butter, at room temp.

¾ c. brown sugar

1 egg

1 tsp. grated orange peel

Measure the dry ingredients into a bowl and stir to combine. In another bowl cream together the butter, the brown sugar and the orange peel until light and fluffy. Add the egg and beat to combine. Add the dry ingredients and beat to combine. Cover with plastic wrap and chill until firm, about 2 hours.

Preheat oven to 350. Lightly grease cookies sheets and set aside.

Measure dough into 1 inch balls using a 1 Tbsp. scoop. Roll between your hands to round and smooth. Place shaped balled onto the prepared cookie sheets two inches apart. Make a small indentation about halfway through the thickness of the cookie. (The rounded end of the handle of a wooden spoon works quite well.) Using a teaspoon, fill the indentation with cranberry sauce, mounding it slightly.

Bake the cookies for 8 minutes or until the edges are lightly browned and firm. Rotate halfway through baking time. Remove cookies from baking sheets to wire racks to cool completely. Store in an airtight container separated by wax paper.